CHINA. 



IMPERIAL MARITIME CUSTOMS. 

T 

777 



II.— MISCELLANEOUS SERIES: No. 14. 



QlC<b 



CATALOGUE 



OP THE 



CHINESE COLLECTION OF EXHIBITS 



FOR THE 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 



PUBLISHED BY ORDER OF 



SHANGHAI: 
STATISTICAL DEPARTMENT 

OF THE 

INSPECTORATE GENERAL. 
MDCCCLXXXIV. 



Class 




BookiL£ 



£l£l 



CHINA. 'V - '*f 



IMPERIAL MARITIME CUSTOMS. 

i - Sr 

III.— MISCELLANEOUS SERIES: No. 14. + * y- 



CATALOGUE 



CHINESE COLLECTION OF EXHIBITS 



FOR THE 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 



PUBLISHED BY ORDER OF 

%\Xt %M$ttUX <ft*tt*lftt of ®MUm$. 



, SHANGHAI: 
STATISTICAL DEPARTMENT 

OF THE 

INSPECTORATE GENERAL. 
MDCCCLXXXIV. 









Di of D» 



CONTENTS. 



Page. 
Chinese Commission ... ... ... ... ... ... iv 

Note v 

Table of Weights, Measures, etc. ... ... ... ... vi 

Introduction : The Cultivation and Manufacture of Cotton in 

China ... ... ... ... ... ... ... vii 

Catalogue : Part I. — The Shanghai Collection ... ... i 

Part II. — The Canton Collection 85 

Appendix : Memorandum on the Importation of Cotton Yarn 

into the Province of Kwangtung ... ... ... 115 

Sketch Map of China Proper. 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 



CHINESE COMMISSION. 



President : SIR ROBERT HART, K.C.M.G., Peking. 

Commissioners for preparing ( E. B. Drew, Esq., Shanghai. 
Collection in China. . I F. E. Woodruff, Esq., Canton. 

Commissioners at New Or- ( W. F. Spinney, Esq. 
leans (J. Neumann, Esq. 

(J. L. Knoepfler. 

Attendants J Teh Ah-kew. 

( Wang Ch'un-li. 



NOTE. 



Having been invited to take part in the World's Industrial 
and Cotton Centennial Exposition to be held in 1884-5 at New- 
Orleans, the Chinese Government entrusted the matter to the 
Inspector General of Customs. It was found advisable in the 
present instance, owing in a measure to the shortness of time 
available and to impending international difficulties, to confine 
participation to the preparation of an Exhibit illustrative 
chiefly of the Cotton Industry, instead of including the entire 
range of the Industrial Arts in China, as was done on the 
occasion of the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia in 1876. 
The work was then placed in the hands of Mr. E. B. Drew, 
Customs Statistical Secretary, of making the collection from 
North and Central China, with Shanghai as the centre, and 
Mr. F. E. Woodruff, Commissioner of Customs, of forming the 
collection for South China, with Canton as the centre. Assistance 
was rendered also by the Commissioners of Customs at the 
ports of Hankow, Kiukiang, Ningpo, and Swatow. The pages 
which follow will be found to afford an Introduction descrip- 
tive of the Cotton Industry in China, succeeded by a Catalogue 
Proper — Part I and Part II — of the objects exhibited. 

The articles contributed from Shanghai and other places 
in North or Central China are enumerated and described in 
Part I, and the labels on the articles themselves give the 
number, preceded by the letter S. (Shanghai). Similarly, the 
objects from Canton and South China are catalogued in Part II, 
and the labels on them give their number, preceded by the 
letter C. (Canton). 

Inspectorate General of Customs, 
Statistical Department, 

Shanghai, September 1884. 



TABLE OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



i catty = i J pounds avoirdupois. 

i picul = ioo catties = 133^ pounds avoirdupois. 

= $t.-$6 American gold. 
1 Hh. tael 1 






5s. d\cl. English money. 
1,615 cask = 1 Haikwan tael. 
1,188 „ =1 American gold dollar. 

1 mau- = almost exactly -^th of an acre.* 

1 ts'un =1.41 inches. 

1 ch'ih = 1 o ts'un =14.1 inches. 

t chang — 10 ckSh ^100 ts'un = 141 inches. 

* Not 1th of an acre, as is stated erroneously on pp. ix and xi, below. 



THE 
CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE 

OP 

COTTON IN CHINA 



An inquiry into the circumstances of the introduction of 
cotton into China leads to the conclusion that it was very 
gradual and proceeded by two distinct routes, viz., from India 
and the South into Kwangtung and Fukien by trading vessels ; 
and from the West through the border provinces, principally 
Shensi and Shansi. But long before cotton was a product of 
China, cotton thread and cotton fabrics were brought hither, 
either as tribute from the people of tributary regions or as an 
article of commerce. Some passages in the " Shu Ching " make 
mention of weaving-cotton being brought into China as tribute 
2,200 years before Christ. Yet it must have been brought, or 
at any rate regarded by the Chinese, rather as a curiosity than 
a commodity in the production of which they might themselves 
engage ; for 2,000 years later it appears not to have been planted 
in the Empire, unless we may believe that its introduction into 
the border provinces, so remote from the centres of government 
and civilisation, was not known or was not deemed of sufficient 
importance to justify the classifying of the cotton industry 
amongst the industries of the country for purposes of taxation. 
It seems to have got its first strong foothold in Kwangtung and 
to have spread thence into Fukien. The history of its introduc- 
tion into the Kiangsu province is more definite. In A.D. 1364 
an officer was appointed to encourage the cultivation of cotton 
in the provinces of Chekiang, Kiangnan, Kiangsi, Hupeh, Hunan, 
and Fukien. It was about this time that the cotton plant was 
first grown in the district of Wu-ni-ching, near Shanghai. The 



viii NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 

people of the district were deeply indebted to a certain old lady- 
named Huang, who, if she did not actually initiate the practice 
of cotton planting there, at least taught them how to make their 
crop most profitable, by instructing them in the use of the 
flocking bow and the loom, and showing them how to weave 
fancy cloths and work coloured threads into patterns. These arts 
she had brought with her from the cotton-producing regions of 
Kwangtung. So highly were her services appreciated that after 
her death a temple was erected to her memory and the people 
worshipped before her image. Although we know so little of the 
history of the introduction of cotton, it is certain that it is now 
grown over a wider field than any other crop in China ; north 
and south, east and west, there seems to be no one of the 
eighteen provinces where it is not produced to some extent. 
The most important cotton-producing regions, however, are in 
Kwangtung, Chekiang, and Kiangsu provinces. Of these, 
Kiangsu is most celebrated both for the quantity and quality 
of the product, It forms the principal crop of the country 
in the neighbourhood of Shanghai, where the soil is a sandy 
alluvial and the land for miles around is perfectly flat. 

Sowing takes place about the end of April, the ground 
having previously been broken up and manured. The tilling is 
done either with the three-pronged hoe or with a buffalo and 
plough. The plough is of the rudest and simplest construction, 
being little more than a crooked branch with a thin iron plate 
attached, which turns up the soil only 5 or 6 inches deep. These 
methods are rude and toilsome, and would not answer in any 
country where land is held in large tracts and where human 
labour is less plentiful. But here the soil is cultivated in small 
patches b} 7 petty farmers, who devote their oAvn labour and that 
of all the available members of their families to the little spot 
which they can call then own, and which is seldom large enough 
to require hired labour to work it. By patient toil and incessant 
care they manage, even with their rude implements, to raise 
enough from an acre or tAvo to supply the necessaries of life ; 



CHINESE EXHIBIT. — INTRODUCTION. ix 

luxuries and even comforts are almost unknown to them. The 
constant drain on the land makes liberal manuring a necessity. 
The manures used for cotton are beancake (the residue of beans 
from which the oil has been pressed), night-soil, ashes, and a 
kind of compost, dredged from the bottoms of creeks and ponds, 
composed of the decayed roots of reeds and grass mixed with 
the soil washed down by the streams. It is common to plant 
a crop of rye or beans after the ripening of the cotton, and the 
stubble from this winter crop is turned into the ground and 
helps to fertilise it. The sowing of the cotton seed is generally 
done broadcast, but sometimes it is planted in regular rows. 
Four men, or rather four persons (for men, women, and children all 
work in the fields), can sow a mou — about one-fifth of an acre — 
a day, treading the seed well in with their feet. After the plants 
have sprung up they are carefully hoed and weeded, and if the seed 
has been sown broadcast, they are thinned out until they stand at 
intervals of about 1 5 inches. When the plants have reached the 
height of 1 8 inches the main stalk is often nipped off to strengthen 
the branches. Troublesome insects are destroyed and the plants 
carefully tended until they begin to flower, which takes place in 
August. There seems to be no insect peculiar to the cotton 
plant, but the same worm which destroys the beans also attacks 
the leaves of the cotton, and commits great ravages if not 
destroyed in time. The plantations are so small, however, that 
these pests are more easily destroyed than they could be were 
the farms on a larger scale. The flowers quickly drop off 
and the formation of the pod begins ; but the plant goes on 
producing flowers and pods until the latter part of October. The 
pods are pendent, and the cotton is thus better protected from 
the rain than it is where they grow upright. They are gathered 
as fast as they burst (beginning about the end of August), all 
hands turning out for this work. A moderately wet summer 
and a dry autumn are the most favourable conditions for the 
production of a good crop. After the pods have opened, rains 
and high winds are much dreaded, as they cause the pods to 



X NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 

fall off and become ruined by the wet and mud. The cotton, 
as it is gathered, is spread daily in the sun on a platform of reeds 
raised a few feet from the ground, until thoroughly dried, when 
the process of separating the seeds begins. For this purpose a 
very cheap and simple, but effective, contrivance is employed. 
This consists of two horizontal rollers — one of wood, about i£ 
inch in diameter, below and almost touching one of iron, | inch in 
diameter, and each about 1 8 inches long. The iron roller is made 
to revolve by a crank which a woman turns with one hand while 
she works the wooden roller with a treadle, and with the other 
hand feeds the cotton between the revolving rollers. The cleaned 
cotton passes through and the seeds drop out on the near side. 

The farmers distinguish two kinds of white cotton and one 
of what we should term yellow, but which is called brown or 
purple by them, in contradistinction to the inferior qualities 
of white, viz., that damaged by rain or other causes and known 
on the market as yellow. The two kinds of white cotton are 
known as the White Seed and the Black Seed : the fibre of the 
latter is hard and tough, and although the per-centage ginned from 
the black seed is somewhat greater than from the white seed, 
this advantage does not compensate for its unsuitableness to 
the primitive appliances used in China for its manufacture ; nor, 
furthermore, does the black seed yield so much oil as the white. 
The yellow species (i.e., the "brown" or "purple," as the Cliinese 
call it) is for the most part exported to the South, and is 
woven into yellow " Nankeens," where this material finds general 
favour. The yellow cotton is usually far inferior to the white 
varieties, so that its use is restricted to cloths which are to be 
dyed. The seeds of the yellow cotton are large, and the pro- 
portion of clean fibre yielded is only about 4 parts in 20, while 
other varieties yield 8 in 20. The pods of the Chinese cotton are 
smaller and the staple shorter than in American cotton. 

The seeds, save such as are kept for next year's planting, are 
sold to the oil maker, who expresses the oil between two mill- 
stones, the upper one of which is turned by a bulloek or a buffalo. 



CHINESE EXHIBIT. — INTRODUCTION. XI 

This oil is used for lighting purposes and for the manufacture 
of Chinese — often called India — ink, which is made from its 
thick black smoke. The residue of the cotton seeds, after the 
oil has been extracted, is used as fodder for cattle, and makes a 
good manure. The stalks of the cotton plant keep the farmer's 
family supplied with fuel for some time, and the ashes from them 
are also used for manuring the land. 

The cotton thus cleaned of its seeds is ready for market. 
If the farmer has been moderately successful, he has gathered 
about i£ piculs — or 200 lbs. — of seed cotton from each mou, 
or fifth of an acre, of land, yielding about 50 catties, or 67 lbs., 
of clean cotton. This cotton, if sold, will fetch on an average 
about Hk.TU. 9.88 (say American gold $13.43) per picul. A fair- 
sized plantation contains about 8 mou, so that Hk.TU. 39.50 may 
be taken to represent the annual return to the average petty 
farmer for the labour of himself and his household, and for 
his outlay for manure, etc. What he may add to this as the 
income from spinning and weaving does not properly belong to 
the profit of farming. He is often obliged to obtain an advance 
on his crop for living expenses, and for this he must pay 2 or 3 
per cent, a month, which is not regarded as extravagant interest 
in China. His net return has to support perhaps a dozen 
persons, for there will be children and grandchildren, one or 
more of the married sons remaining on the farm. As we shall see, 
however, the farmer in most cases adds to the profits of farming 
the product of the labour of his household in spinning and 
weaving, and the joint return enables him to live very com- 
fortably. The cleaned cotton, such as is not prepared and 
woven at home, is carried to market in baskets and bags and 
sold to the " flockers," or to dealers in raw cotton. 

The dealers pack it tightly into hemp bags for transportation 
inland, or exportation. No compressing machinery is used in 
packing. The weight of the bags or bales varies, but is on 
the average about 120 catties. Although the production of 
cotton is common to all the provinces, it is only in two or three 



xii NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 

that the amount produced is more than sufficient for local 
consumption. Thus, the Customs Returns show Raw Cotton as 
an export at Tientsin, Wuhu, Shanghai, and Ningpo only, while 
it figures as an import at all the other ports, with one or two 
exceptions. The amounts exported in 1883 through the Maritime 
Customs were : — 

From Tientsin . . piculs 7,694. (Pechili province.) 



(Anhwei „ ) 
(Kiangsu „ ) 
(Chekiang „ ) 



„ Wuhu . . „ 5,748. 

„ Shanghai . . „ 300,423. 

„ Ningpo . . „ 935. 

These figures do not include exports in native junks, which 
are very considerable from Ningpo and perhaps from Shanghai. 
It is apparent, then, that Kiangsu and Chekiang are the only 
provinces where the cotton raised is so greatly in excess of local 
requirements as to form an important article of export. Of the 
export by foreign-type vessels (i.e., all excepting native junks) 
from Shanghai in 1883, 23,844 piculs went to foreign countries, 
including 2,185 piculs to Hongkong; the remaining 276,579 
piculs were carried to the other Chinese ports, notably Hankow, 
Kiukiang, Amoy, and Swatow, to supply local deficiencies. We 
must look upon cotton cultivation in China therefore as almost 
entirely an internal industry, and not, like the raising of tea 
and silk, as furnishing any considerable contribution to foreign 
commerce. 

In speaking of manufactured cotton it is necessary to notice 
again the simplicity of methods, the absence of large establish- 
ments and labour-saving machinery. The great centres of 
industry in China get their title, not from the existence of vast 
factories, but from the congregation of a large number of small 
"establishments, each employing a few workmen, or from the 
employment of the people, at their own houses, in a particular 
industry. The greater part of the cotton never leaves the farm 
where it is raised except in the shape of cloth, all the processes 
" of cleaning, flocking, spinning, and weaving being gone through 
on the premises. What is not thus manufactured at home or 



CHINESE EXHIBIT. — INTRODUCTION. Xlll 

exported is sold to the "flockers," who separate its fibres and 
prepare it for spinning by the use of the tan-hua kung-tzu, or 
flocking bow. The string of the bow is sunk into a mass of 
cotton, some of which adheres to it. The string is beaten with 
a stick, and the vibrations cause the cotton to fly off in a 
light and fluffy state, its fibres well separated. These flocking 
establishments are very numerous in Shanghai, and for the 
most part employ only one or two men. A great deal of the 
cotton thus treated is used without further preparation in the 
manufacture of wadded clothing and bed-quilts, very important 
industries. Woollen cloth is made only to a very small extent 
in China, and its place is supplied by wadded clothing, consisting 
of an inner and outer facing of cotton cloth with a thick filling 
of cotton wool. This raiment supplies the necessary warmth, 
but from its thickness is extremely cumbersome. In cold 
weather the men and women present an exceptionally stout and 
burly appearance, and the little children are actually "as broad 
as they are long." The wadded quilts, of course, supply the 
place of woollen blankets, and are also used as mattresses, the 
sleeper lying between two of them. 

The flocked cotton is also peddled out in small quantities 
to Avomen in the towns and cities, who spin it at home, some- 
times weaving it themselves and sometimes selling the thread to 
weavers. A catty of spinning cotton is bought for about 240 cash, 
and a catty of thread is sold for 360 cash. The whole of the 
cotton cloth with which the market is supplied and the millions 
clothed is thus made up of the numerous small contributions of 
individuals who have spun and woven it at their own homes. 
There seem to be no establishments, either large or small, for 
spinning or weaving, the only approach to such being where 
two or three families join their labour and divide the product. 
After the cotton is flocked it is worked into light rolls about 
half an inch in diameter by the use of a small, flat piece of board 
with a handle, which is passed back and forth over the cotton on 
a table. Three of these rolls are held between the fingers of 



XIV NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-^. 

the spinner and spun off on to three spindles worked by a strap 
running over the spinning wheel. The wheel is of wood, about 

2 feet in diameter, and is worked by a rude treadle. The thread 
thus made is used for weaving; sewing thread is made by 
twisting three of these together. The thread for the warp is 
sized with flour paste sometimes before and sometimes after 
it is stretched on the loom. The weaving machinery is on the 
same primitive scale as that used in all the other processes. It 
is entirely of wood, and roughly dressed wood at that. The 
batten is of delicate strips of bamboo, which is tough enough to 
serve its purpose very well. The shuttle is thrown back and 
forth by hand and caught in the hand at each end as it comes 
out. A skilled and active worker can weave as much as 4 chang 
of cloth in a day, but the average product is not more than 2\ or 

3 chang a day for each hand employed. The cloth is generally 
woven in lengths of 18, 20, and 22 ch'ih, and is 12 ts'un in width; 
but different lengths and widths can be made if necessary. It is 
sold for from 25 to 50 cash per ch'ih, according to fineness of 
texture. The fabrics produced from cotton alone are not of 
very many different kinds, the differences in the native cloths 
being generally in texture and dimensions rather than the result 
of separate and distinct processes of manufacture. The use of 
different coloured threads, the mixing of colours, and the working 
of different patterns all assist in increasing the variety. There is, 
too, a kind of diagonal cloth, and a kind which is scraped with 
a knife to give it a fuzzy appearance. 

The cloth which is made at the farm-houses is either taken 
to town and sold or is bought up by travelling traders, who pay 
for it either with money or fancy wares. Some of the cloth is 
made up into garments just as it comes from the loom, but 
most of it goes to the dye-houses; and it is here that we first 
see the cotton in the hands of craftsmen who do their work in 
establishments of some size. In some of the dye-houses as 
many as 40 men are employed. There are some establishments 
devoted to dyeing red, some to dyeing blue, and others again to 



CHINESE EXHIBIT.— INTRODUCTION. XV 

bleaching white. Perhaps nine-tenths of the cloth is dyed blue, 
this being the cheapest colour. The cloth having been first 
sized with paste is soaked in vats 5 or 6 feet deep, containing the 
dyeing substance, being passed from vat to vat into stronger and 
stronger solutions. It is afterwards put into a wooden tub over 
a fire and heated, to fix the colour. Figure-dyeing is done by 
tracing the figures on the cloth and covering the parts of the 
cloth which are within the figures with a paste made of ashes 
and flour mixed with glue and alum. The piece is then steeped 
in the dye without affecting the parts covered with the paste, 
which is afterwards scraped off. Cloth is printed from wooden 
blocks on which have been cut figures of men and women, 
birds and beasts, landscapes, etc. Stencil plates are also used, 
and the dye applied with a brush. The substances most used 
in dyeing are indigo for blue ; nutgalls and a species of cone- 
shaped fruit called the hua kuo, or flower fruit, for black; safflower 
and sapanwood for red ; turmeric for yellow. 

Besides the manufacture of cloth, bed quilts, and wadded 
clothing, there are many smaller industries in which cotton is 
employed. Such are the making of pouches, girdles, hand- 
kerchiefs, tape, string, braid, cords of all sizes, lampwick, bed 
canopies, table-cloths, cash bags, artificial flowers, sashes, felt 
(from old rags), and various fancy articles, which, taken in 
the aggregate, furnish employment to many hands. The cash 
bags are woven from very large and strong threads and resemble 
canvas. 

A comparison of Chinese cotton cloth with foreign fabrics 
results not altogether in favour of the latter. It is to be 
expected, from the roughness of the machinery and the primitive 
methods employed here, that the threads should be less even 
and the weaving less regular; and in fineness of texture and 
smoothness of surface the foreign cloth is certainly superior. 
In stability, however, the native fabric is far ahead of the 
common foreign piece goods. The first cost of English shirtings 
and T-cloths is less than that of native cloth, but if the relative 



XVi NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 

lengths of time which, the two kinds will last be considered, 
it is doubtful which would prove the cheaper. 

Foreign cotton goods are used by the well-to-do and the 
poorer classes for two distinct reasons. The former use the finer 
and more costly kinds because they are superior in appearance 
to the native cloth; and the poor buy the common shirtings 
because the state of their finances makes it easier for them to 
purchase these than the Chinese fabric, even though they may 
have to replace their garments twice as often. To what extent 
foreign cotton goods take the place of the native may be inferred 
from the following: figures, taken from the Customs Trade 
Returns for 1883 : — 

Import of Cotton Piece Goods from Foreign Countries 
for the Year 1883. 

Quantity. Value. 

; : Pieces. Hk.Tis. 

Grey Shirtings 4,417,235 5,961,669 

White Shirtings 1,585,867 2,616,470 

T-Cloths 2,797,265 2,857,153 

Dyed Shirtings n 3,974 139,289 

Drills 500,884 1,125,592 

Sheetings 840,534 1,965,197 

Turkey Red Cloths 3 50,700 446,630 

Jeans and Twills ...... 3*9,950 521,265 

Chintzes, Cotton Prints, etc. . . 227,625 255,346 
Jaconets, Cambrics, Lawns, Muslins 100,463 67,587 
Velvets, Velveteens, Fustians . . 27,198 123,740 
Other kinds 218,163 47^,479 

Total 11,499,858 16,558,417 

Besides this total of 11,499,858 pieces of various cotton 
goods, there were imported 362,359 dozens of cotton hand- 
kerchiefs. Taking the population of China at the low estimate 
of 250,000,000, it will be seen that the foreign cottons cannot 



CHINESE EXHIBIT. — INTRODUCTION. XV11 

yet have made any considerable headway against the native 
cloth, nor do they form so important a part in the clothing of 
the people as the figures of the table — taken without reference to 
the immense population — would seem to indicate. This state- 
ment is only slightly modified by the fact that woollen piece 
goods, which to some extent take the place of wadded cotton 
clothes, were imported to the amount of 512,572 pieces, valued at 
HJc.TU. 3,875,884, during the year, together with 5,746 pairs of 
blankets, worth HhTts. 17,175. The popularity of the native- 
made fabric is shown by the fact that cotton yarn and thread 
to the extent of 228,006 piculs, valued at Hk.Tts. 5,241,994 
(American gold $7,129,112), were imported from England and 
India during the year 1883, to be woven on the native looms. 

It may not be out of place to refer here to a fabric which is 
peculiar to China and in the hot season is used very largely in 
preference to cotton cloth. This is the J[ ^jj (hsia pu), or summer 
cloth, known in English as grasscloth. It is woven from the 
fibres of several different plants having the general characteris- 
tics of hemp. The one most commonly used is the Urtica nivea. 
The cloths woven from these plants are of all degrees of fine- 
ness, but are divided into the two general classes of coarse and 
fine grasscloth. The coarser kinds are cheap, and are much used 
by the poor people in the summer, being of very open texture 
and exceedingly durable. The finer qualities make the long, 
white summer gowns of the well-to-do classes. They resemble 
fine muslin, but are much stronger and more durable. Some of 
the finest samples contain 100 threads to the inch. 

As one would naturally suppose, the establishment at 
Shanghai of spinning and weaving factories for manufacturing the 
native cotton with foreign machinery has been long discussed 
and twice attempted. About four years ago a company was 
formed in which Chinese alone were interested, the projectors 
having obtained from the Government special privileges amount- 
ing to a monopoly in the manufacture of textile fabrics with 
foreign machinery. The capital was all subscribed and paid up ; 



XViii NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 

a competent agent was sent to the United States to obtain 
machinery especially adapted to the working of the short staple 
cotton ; land was procured, and the work of building commenced. 
Meanwhile, however, owing — it is stated — to faults in manage- 
ment, there was soon an empty treasury and an unfinished work. 
The machinery arrived and was stored in warehouses, where it 
still lies. No steps are likely to be taken for the resuscitation 
of this enterprise for some time to come. The history of the 
second attempt is shorter still. It was proposed to start a mill 
for spinning only, and a company was formed for the purpose, 
in which foreign as well as native capital was to be employed. 
The stock was all subscribed for and the first instalment paid, 
but the new company met with so much opposition from the 
one already started that they were forced to give up the enter- 
prise, and the money was returned in full to subscribers. The 
rivalry of the new company was not reasonably to be feared, 
however, since they proposed to carry on spinning only ; though 
it may have been suspected that they intended to extend their 
business after obtaining a foothold. Thus all attempts so far 
have failed ; but such a field for the profitable employment of 
capital is not likely to be long neglected, after general business 
becomes better and money more plentiful in China than is the 
case at the present time. 

Shanghai, September 1884. 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION. 



CHINA SECTION 



Part I. 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION 



ARTICLE. 



No. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



I set Lanterns (4) 



5) . )) 



(4) 
(4) 
(4) 
(4) 



1 pair Banners . 



^^ >> 



Scrolls 



I » 



mm 

xnmmm 
mnmmm 



mm 



Kwangtnng, Canton 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



10 



AT THE NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chfnese. 



^m mm 



urn ±m 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



5S-3S 



Hl-.Tts. 



2.26 
2.18 



2.90 



2.90 



18.66 



7.70 


5.66 


4.08 


3.00 


4.08 


3.00 


4.08 


3.00 


2.26 


1.66 



Length. 



1.66 
1.60 



2.13 



Width. 



REMARKS. 



Glass partly frosted, wooden frames, six- 
sided. 



Same as the preceding, but square. 

Bamboo frames filled in with silk gauze, 
hand painted, six-sided. 

Same as the preceding, but square. 

Same as the preceding, but fan-shaped. 

ifc'JW PL " Tlie Great and Pure Empire." 
' ' The Great and Pure " is the name of the 
present dynasty ruling China ; applied 
also to the nation. 

il of Wi $£ >fc 13> " The Great Cott °n 
Exposition. " 

Pf^yCB^ H 3p> " As from far De y° n< l 
the clouds in spring the moon with liquid 
refulgence shines ; [so the lustre of] a 
proper observance of what is right [is 
reflected upon] our country and our litera- 
ture [causing both to] nourish." Written 
in a style called liu ch'ao, or six dynasties. 
Peculiar to the six dynasties preceding 
the Posterior Liang, A.D. 907. 

^ fig # If ft " A s° odl y store of 

riches renders one's days happy and 
[further] gain easy ; the collection of 
rare and precious things [at this Exposi- 
tion] causes all who see it to express their 
delight. " Written in the chuan character, 
called by foreigners the seal character. 
It is the most ancient style of writing, 
and came after the picture hieroglyphics. 
Books are not printed in it, its use being 
limited to seals, inscriptions, and or- 
namental writing. 



*M 



ifftli^l; 



M If $1 M B fl#, "The prompt 
and energetic execution of a wise design 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



AETICLB. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



i pair Scrolls 



1 pair Porcelain Vases. 

Porcelain Vase 

1 pair Porcelain Vases 

1 „ „ Garden Seats , 

6 Porcelain Figures 

1 pair Porcelain Garden Seats 

6 Porcelain Figures 

1 pair Porcelain Garden Seats 

6 Porcelain Figures .., 

6 pairs Porcelain Garden Seats .... 
1 pair Porcelain Umbrella Stands , 



mm 



t&A 



mm 
m®§ 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Kiangsi, Kingtechen 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value, 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



EJc.Tts. 



Length. 



Width. 



o &i 



REMARKS. 



um ±% 



6.34 



s.25 



18.13 

9-97 
22.66 
9.52 
2.26 
9.52 
2.26 
9.52 
2.26 
21.76 
4.98 



4.66 



13-33 
7-33 

16.66 
7.00 
1.66 
7.00 
1.66 
7.00 
1.66 

16.00 
3.66 



is known to all nations ; its beneficent 
results extend to all, and happiness 
follows as the seasons come round." 
Written in the li character, or style of 
official attendants. When first introduced, 
used for engrossing documents ; now em- 
ployed occasionally in prefaces and in- 
scriptions. 

"The gathering together here of rare 
things will bring about intercourse with 
foreign nations and increase the wealth 
of China. The result of this great Ex- 
position will be immense advantages to 
the Black-haired Race." Written in the 
Tc'ai character, or pattern style. It is 
the common form of calligraphy, and all 
public documents are drawn up in it. 
No one can claim scholarship who can- 
not write it neatly and correctly. 

ffiM*v%>i&$k> " Inan exU - 

bition where all things of rarity are 
brought together, the ingenuity of the 
workman draws forth the admiration of 
all beholders." Written in the same 
form of character as the preceding, but 
in a more free style. 



II 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



No. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 

30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 



1 pair Porcelain Vases. 
1 „ „ Jars.., 

1 „ „ Vases. 

1 » )J 5) • 

1 JJ 5) 55 



4 pairs „ 



2 Porcelain Plates 

4 pairs Porcelain Cuspidores . 
pair Porcelain Flower Pots. 



„ „ Bowls 

o Porcelain Plates 

pair Bamboo Hat Stands . 



Vases for Pencils. 



Bamboo Vase for Pencils . 



1 pair Bamboo Vases for Pencils , 



mm 
mm 



mBist 






®Mt 



1ft W & 



m3k 



ft: 






Kiangsi, Kingtechen 



Kiangsu, Kiating 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



Province and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 






Name in Chinese. 


Amer. 

Gold $. 


Hk.TU. 


Chang. 
Ch'ih. 

Ts'un. 


£5 £ 


EEMARKS. 




ft¥ &JMM 


9.06 


6.66 










55 55 


4-53 


3-33 










55 55 


4-53 


3-33 










55 55 


3-27 


2-33 










55 55 


2.72 


2.00 










55 55 


5-44 


4.00 






Shaped somewhat similar to a pilgrim's 
flagon. Used by Chinese for paper pipe- 
lights, and hung against the wall. 




55 55 


8.16 


6.00 










55 55 


9.06 


6.66 










55 55 


4-53 


3-33 










)5 55 


4.08 


3.00 










55 55 


3-27 


2.00 










55 55 


4.08 


3.00 










55 55 


13.60 


10.00 










UMMB, 


3.62 


2.66 










55 55 


0.72 


o.53 










55 55 


1.02 


0.75 










55 55 


1. 81 


i-33 










)5 55 


1.81 


i-33 










55 55 


1.46 


1.06 










55 55 


0.87 


0.64 










55 55 


0.72 


°-53 










55 55 


0.72 


o.53 










55 55 


0.72 


o.53 










55 55 


2.18 


1.60 









NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



pair Bamboo Vases for Pencils . 



» » 



5) » 



)) J5 



)> » 



Bamboo Vase for Pencils 



1 box Bamboo Forfeit Tablets 



Bamboo Feather Case. 



Bead Box. 
Seal „ 
Tray 



5 Bamboo Paper Weights 
2 „ Pencil Kests.... 
4 „ Hand „ 

2 n n 11 ••• 



/M-£5 



m 



wm%m 



fmmm 



immw 


55 


ffrHM: 


tt»a« 


)5 

tfBME 


ft**« 


ff« 



Kiangsu, Kiating 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



Peovince and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Anier. 
Gold $. 



Hk.Tts. 



Length. 



Width. 



¥> jS 



REMARKS. 



¥LM M& 



0-3S 
o.3S 
o-3S 

1.02 

°-35 
0-3S 
0.27 
0.14 

o-35 
0.44 
1.09 



0.26 
0.26 
0.26 

0.75 
0.26 
0.26 
0.20 
0.10 
0.26 
0.32 
0.80 



I.OI 


0.74 


0.58 


0.43 


0.58 


0.43 


1.09 


0.80 


0.72 


0.53 


0.72 


0-53 


0.58 


o.43 


0.94 


0.69 


0.50 


o.37 


0.72 


0-53 


0.87 


0.64 



Used at drinking bouts. On each tablet 
a few words are written, denoting pecu- 
liarities in individuals ; these are drawn, 
and the unlucky or lucky one whose 
case it meets pays the penalty by drinking 
either one or as many cups of wine as 
have been previously agreed upon. 

Used for peacocks' feathers, the insignia of 
official hats. 

The same as the preceding, but used for 
the smaller feather. 



For beads or necklaces worn by officials. 



For resting the wrist on while writing. 



10 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 

2 Bamboo Task Scorers , 

2 „ Needle Cases , 

3 „ Paper Knives 

4 „ „ Knife Cases 

5 „ Spectacle Cases 

2 pairs Bamboo Scissors 

Series of Pictures (20) illustrating 
Cotton Cultivation and Fabrication. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production- 



Name in English. 



m 



mm 
mm® 



mm 
+te 



Models : — 
Farmhouse . 



Cotton Gin, with figure of boy 
working it. 



AmM 
ftffi?8 



Flocking Bow, with figure of nian jpp^^J 
working it. 

Cotton Spinning Machine, with 
figure of woman spinning. 

Cotton Spinning Machine 



Machine (with figures) for pre 
paring Yarn previous to placing 
in the loom. 

Loom, with figure of woman at 
work. 

Machine for reeling Thread, with 
figure of girl at work. 



>wM. 



m 



m 



Kiangsu, Kiating .. 



Shanghai 



Chekiang, Ningpo. 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Chekiang, Ningpo. 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



II 



Pkovince and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



lllc.lts. 



Length. 



Width. 



REMARKS. 



tm m%. 



±m 



0.07 
0.22 
0.44 
1.81 
1.81 
0.36 
in. 52 



0.05 
0.16 
0.32 

i-33 
i-33 

0.27 
82.00 



11 11 



)) 11 



ftf£±i 



mm mm 



Used by students for checking their tasks. 
Used also for winding thread on. 



For cutting fresh flowers. 

(1) Tilling; (2) Sowing ; (3) Weeding; (4) 
Fertilising ; (5) The Farmer's Inspection ; 
(6) Gathering ; (7) Uprooting the Stalks ; 
(8) Drying ; (9) Separating the different 
Qualities; (10) Ginning; (11) Selling and 
Packing; (12) Flocking; (13) Preparing 
Flocked Cotton for Spinning; (14) The 
Spinning Machine; (15) Reeling Yarn; 
(16) Preparing Tarn for the Loom; (17) 
The Loom ; (18) Agent Buying Cloth from 
Country People; (19) Packing Cloth; 
(20) Cloth Store ; Country Women Selling- 
Cloth. 



On an average, one man can flock 20 catties, 
or 27 lbs., of cotton a day. 

Used for making cotton yarn. 



The same as the above, by which three 
threads can be reeled by one person. 
The inventor of this machine, a woman 
named Hoang, who lived during the 
Ming dynasty, was apotheosised for her 
ingenuity, and a temple dedicated to her 
memory stands in Shanghai. 



The reeling process as illustrated here fol- 
lows the spinning of the yarn, after which 
it is stretched on apparatus No. 82, pre- 
vious to being placed in the loom. 



12 



NEW OKLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Models — cont. 

Glazing Apparatus. 



Cotton Press 



Endless-chain Pump. 



Country Man carrying Cotton to 
Market. 



Peddler with Pack 



Inland-water Junk : Chekiang pro- 
vince. 

Sea-going Junk, Cotton laden : Fu- 
kien province. 

Literatus writing, with an Abacus 
by hini. 



Baby (Girl) in chair, with toys ; 
common life. 

Baby (Boy) standing ; common life 

Mandarin (with paraphernalia), in 
winter attire. 



tfttfSM 



nnm 



mm 

*ASE#±lff 



F3 MSa.i 

rtTA 






■kmmmw 



Chekiang, Ningpo. 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Chekiang, Ningpo. 



5J » 



11 11 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



13 



Province and Town, 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



HlcTta. 



Length. 



Width. 



? s 

6 & 



REMARKS. 



^'A 



um ±\ 



9ti n?; 



The material having been tightly rolled, the 
roller is removed and placed on a block of 
granite, on to which the block, V-shaped, 
is tilted and worked by the feet of a 
man, who steadies himself by the two 
lateral bars. 

The dimensions of this press when in use are 
8 feet high, 6 feet long, and 2 feet 8 inches 
broad. The pressing is done by a man 
dropping into the sack as the cotton is 
placed in it, and, by a succession of 
bounds, reducing it to its narrowest limits 
possible. Having no proper machinery 
for carding, cotton pressed by any great 
power would find no favour with the 
Chinese. 

Worked by an ox or water-buffalo. 

Worked by men or boys, who, steadying 
themselves by the upper bar, tread the 
hobs on the lower beam. 



The pack is a number of boxes fitting on 
to each other. The wares consist entirely 
of cloth and haberdashery. In his hand 
the peddler carries a small rattle, by 
which he signals his presence as he passes 
along the street. 



The abacus, or reckoning board, is indis- 
pensable in all calculations made by 
Chinese; and in its absence a substitution 
based on its decimal principle, with the 
beads represented by copper cash, pieces 
of paper, or sticks, is resorted to. The 
two beads on one side of the bar, which 
traverse it longitudinally, represent five 
each ; the five on the lower division stand 
for units. 



14 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Pkoduction — 



No. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



97 



98 

99 

100 



101 



Models — cont. 

Buddhist Priest, in winter attire... 



Bride, in wedding garments 
Idol 



Widow, in full mourning ; common 
life. 



Boards for stamping Cotton Cloth; 
11 specimens. 



»ffA 



102 

103 
104 
105 
106 
107 
108 
109 



Stencil Parchment Sheets for Printing 
9 specimens. 



Hoe. 



Pick Hoe 

White Cotton, without Seed, 1st Quality 
i) » )) » 2ncl » 

)5 55 5) » 3 rC l 55 

Yellow „ „ „ 1st „ 

55 55 55 55 2nCl - 55 



mftWftM 



1 si 



— ~ hit s ■ •*• 



— » Afi - zH: -*+• 



Chekiang, Ningpo. 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



15 



Province and Town, 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



IIIi.Tts. 



Width. 



REMARKS. 



mu i« 



trm ±m 



16.00 



4-53 

0.27 
0.68 

W picul, 
IS.06 

13-85 
12.63 

7.75 
6.8l 



0.20 

O.50 

& picul 
II.08 

IO.I4 

9.29 

5.70 

5.01 



The branded spots which adorn the front 
portion of his cranium are evidence of 
his having taken the necessary vows, 
each of which is impressed on his memory 
by this fiery ordeal. Their presence 
entitles him to admittance to all Bud- 
dhistic monasteries, and gives him a claim 
to food and lodging therein. 



The use of the stick, which is adorned with 
small pieces of white paper and is sup- 
posed to support her tottering frame, is 
restricted to 49 days from her husband's 
decease, during which time, her grief 
being so intense, she takes but little 
nourishment. This attire is only worn 
when following the remains to the place 
where they are to be deposited previous 
to final interment, which may be a year 
or years after. 

The tedious process employed in the use 
of these boards is sufficient indication 
of the industry of the Chinese people. 
Placing the surface of the cloth, which 
is to be the face, on the board, a tough 
piece of bamboo is employed in rubbing 
over the cloth till the impression is shown 
through ; the colouring is then lightly and 
frequently applied with a hair brush to 
the portions requiring it, each application 
being followed by frequent rubbings. 



See note, p. 30. 



From the same plant as the preceding, but 
depreciates because soiled. 



16 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 



No. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



110 

111 



White Cotton, flocked, 1st Quality , 
Brown „ „ 



112 
113 
114 
115 
116 
117 
118 
119 
120 
121 
122 
123 



■asm 



White Seed Cotton 

Black „ „ 

Yellow „ „ 

Black „ „ 

Yellow „ „ 

White Cotton, without Seed 
Brown „ „ „ 

White Cotton Seed, White . 
» Black.., 

Brown „ „ 

Cotton Pods, opened. 

Cotton Seed Oil 






■ft 






mm 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Hupeh, Hankow .. 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



17 



Province akd Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.Tts. 



& 5 -5 

5 o g 



Width. 



4 I 

d S 



REMARKS. 



UM ±ffi 



m an 



urn ±m 



$ picul. 
16.84 

I4.32 



V picul, 
12.38 

IO-S3 



3-67 


2.72 


4.22 


3.10 


3-36 


2.47 


547 


4.02 


10.10 


743 


15.25 


11. 21 


15.91 


11.70 


0.42 


0.31 


0.42 


0.31 


0.42 


0.31 



5.44 4.00 

first crushed under a heavy stone block of about 7 
worked on a stone of similar dimensions ; the pulp 
holds a quantity sufficient to make one cake ; it is 



From this cotton, called purple or brown 
by Chinese, is manufactured the material 
of a yellowish-brown colour which in 
the early days of foreign intercourse 
with China received the name of "nan- 
keen," and which has since almost 
become the generic term of all undyed 
cotton cloth of Chinese make. It is 
said that immersion in log-wood dye 
produces no change in its colour, while 
white cotton undergoes a transition to 
violet. Grown in small quantities in the 
northern provinces. 

Averages 34 per cent, net after ginning. 



The same as No. 113. 

The same as No. 114. Grown sparsely in 
Hupeh province. 



In expressing cotton seed oil the seed is 
feet in diameter, which is turned by a buffalo and 
is then steamed in wicker baskets, each of which 
then placed in a bamboo hoop and stamped down 



with the feet, and a little chopped straw is scattered on top to prevent agglomeration when the next 
is placed on it. Fifteen or twenty cakes are thus built up, and the whole laid lengthwise in a 
wooden trough and tightly wedged up with hard-wood, the main wedge being finally inserted and 
driven home with a heavy stone hammer, the oil passing out through a hole at the bottom of the 
trough into a receptacle. From good, fresh, white seed 6 per cent, is expressed, while old seed yields 
only 3 per cent. Black seed is not in favour, owing to its toughness and small yield ; yellow or 
brown cotton seed is so rare that, though considered inferior to white, it is mixed with the latter, 
and passes unnoticed. Cotton seed oil, after being clarified or strained through silk pongee, is used 
for adulterating bean oil; for lighting purposes it is unpopular owing to the quantity of smoke it 
throws off ; mixed with tobacco, it is said to be an excellent remedy for skin diseases in cattle. 



18 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ABTICLE. 



No. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



124 



Cotton Seedcake. 



tt¥* 



125 

126 
127 
128 
129 
130 



131 
132 
133 
134 
135 
136 
137 
138 
139 
140 
141 



Beancake 



Steelyard 



Jl1 



"Encyclopedia of Agriculture," 24 vols. 



3 Cloth Bags 



1 piece J 


J lam UI01 


I 55 


55 5) 


* J) 


5) 55 


* 55 


55 )) 


1 55 


)) 55 


I 5) 


55 55 


1 55 


55 5) 


1 )) 


5) JJ 


1 5) 


55 55 


1 )) 


55 55 



titsi 



juleps 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Shengking,N'chwang 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



55 55 



55 5> 



5) 55 



Sungkiang 

Shanghai 

Sungkiang 

Shanghai 
Hupeh, Hanyang . . . 
Kiangsu, Sungkiang 

„ Shanghai 
Chekiang, Hangchow 
Kiangsu, Shanghai 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



19 



Pbovince and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hlc.Tts. 



Length. 



Width, 



REMARKS. 



ttm ±5 



aa *m 



fti§±; 



mi 



« mm 
urn mtt 

» ±m 



um ±m 



0.45 

$ picul. 


0.33 

<P picul. 


O.90 


O.66 


O.50 


0.37 


0.1s 


O.I I 


0,11 


0.08 


1.31 


0.96 


0.14 


O.IO 


0.57 


0.42 


0.54 


0.40 


0.40 


0.30 


0.40 


0.30 


0.50 


0.37 


1.17 


0.85 


0.38 


0.27 


0.50 


0.37 


0.37 


0.27 


0.65 


0.48 



1 9 

1 9 

1 6 

1 6 

2 o 

3 9 

1 6 

2 o 
2 1 

2 2 



92 

1 4 

1 o 
I o 

I 2 

9i 

1 2 
1 1 
1 5 



Actual cash transactions seldom take place 
in the purchase of this commodity, a 
system of barter being generally followed. 
Farmers bringing the seed to oil factories 
receive in exchange an equal weight of 
seedcake, which they use for feeding 
cattle, and in some parts of the Kiangsu 
province for manuring millet and sugar- 
cane. 

Residue of beans and peas after the oil has 
been expressed; used chiefly as a manure, 
also as fodder for cattle. 



Will weigh 1 picul 7 catties=i4; 



25 catties=33^ lbs. 



14 



:i9§ lbs. 



This is one of the most exhaustive works 
on agriculture in the Chinese language; 
it is divided into 60 chapters, is illustrated 
with wood etchings, and each chapter 
treats of a particular subject. The author 
was Hsu KuANG-CH%of the Ming dynasty, 
who lived in Shanghai. 

Used by women for gathering cotton in. 

For making wearing apparel. Bleached and 
glazed. 

For making wearing apparel. Bleached. 

Usually called "nankeens;" manufactured 
from tsu or brown cotton. 

The same as the preceding, but glazed. 

Of coarser quality than the two preceding 
kinds ; unglazed. 

Of still coarser quality than the preceding. 

For making wearing apparel. 

Coarser than the preceding, but has same 
use. 

For sacking and lining. 



20 



NEW OKLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Pboduction- 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



piece Plain Cloth , 



Imitation Lamb-skin. 



piece Dyed Cloth 






Kiangsu, Ts'ungrning 
Hupeh, Hanyang ... 









Kiangsu, Soochow. 

■>■> » 

Chekiang, Hangchow 
Kiangsu, Soochow.. 
Chekiang, Ningpo.. 
Hupeh, Hanyang .. 

5> 11 •• 

Kiangsu, Shanghai 



PJ 






CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



21 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Anier. 
Gold $. 



Hk.TTs. 



Length. 



Width, 



REMARKS. 



-M mm 



UM MM 



mu w» 



urn ±m 



0.90 
0.45 
0.45 
0.45 
0.64 
0.31 
0.31 

0.33 
0.83 

O.IO 

0.69 
0.46 
0.92 

0.97 
0.97 
0.97 
0.97 
0.97 
0.97 
0.56 
0.50 
0.61 



0.66 
0.33 
0.33 
0.33 
0.47 
0.23 
0.23 

2.24 
0.61 
0.07 

0.51 

0.34 
0.68 

0.72 
0.72 
0.72 
0.72 
0.72 
0.72 
0.41 

0.68 
0.45 



5 3 o 
3 5 o 
3 5 o 
3 5 o 
380 
200 
200 
1 9 o 
300 
1 3 6 
220 
140 
320 
320 
320 
320 
320 
320 
320 
1 6 o 
1 8 o 
1 8 o 



1 1* 

1 1 

1 1 

1 2 

° 9i 

° 92 

8J 

1 7 

8| 

1 o 
I o 
o 9 
o 9 
o 9 
o 9 
o 9 
o 9 
o 9 
o 8^ 
o 8£ 
o 8 



For sacking and lining. 



For making wearing apparel. 

Bleached. Used for funeral decorations. 

Unbleached. For same use. 

For lining and cleaning purposes. 

For sacking. 

For sacking and towelling. 

All cotton. 

A little coarser than the preceding. 

Slatish-blue ; figured. Used principally for 
the long gowns worn by men. 

Dark blue ; figured. 

Lighter blue than the preceding ; figured. 

Dark green ; figured. 

Black; figured. 

Grey ; figured. 

Slate; figured. 

Turquoise blue ; glazed. Used principally 

for making women's socks. 
Violet. Clothing for women and children. 

Pea green. The process of dyeing enhances 
its value. The cloth, while still wet 
with the dye, is laid on a surface and 
exposed to the night air of early winter, 
and the frost, chemically affecting it, 
causes the colour to become lighter on 
one side than on the other. Clothing 
for women and children. 



22 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



Place of Pkodtjction- 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. Name in English. 



piece Dyed Cloth 



,. MX 



K 

» •>■> 






„ n& 



m 






Krnwmm 
mat 6 



Kiangsu, Sungkiang 



Shanghai 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



23 



Province 


and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 






















BEMARKS. 




Name in Chinese. 


Amer. 
Gold $. 


Hk.Tts. 


S 


i 











urn 


MC 


O.64 


O.47 


1 9 





O 


9 


Violet. ClotliiDg for women and children. 




)> 


>> 


0.54 


O.40 


1 6 





O 


8 


Red. Clothing for women and children. 




j> 


)) 


0.43 


O.32 


1 6 





O 


8 


Pea green. Clothing for women and children. 
The same as No. 163, but glazed. 




» 


)) 


0.57 


O.42 


1 7 





O 


8£ 


Dark violet ; glazed. Clothing for both 
sexes. 




J? 


)) 


0.57 


O.42 


1 7 





O 


9 


Black. Clothing for both sexes. 




» 


)J 


0.57 


O.42 


1 7 





O 


8 


Black. Clothing for both sexes. Finer than 
the preceding. 




>5 


)) 


O.57 


O.42 


1 7 





O 


9 


Dark violet; glazed. Clothing for both sexes. 




» 


» 


O.49 


O.36 


1 7 





O 


9 


Dark blue ; glazed. Clothing for both sexes. 




5) 


» 


O.49 


O.36 


1 7 





O 


9 


The same as the preceding, but lighter in 
colour. 




)> 


)> 


O.49 


O.36 


1 7 





O 


9 


The same as the preceding, but still lighter 
in colour. 




» 


J3 


O.48 


o-35 


1 9 





O 


9 


Dark violet; glazed. Clothing for both 
sexes. 




M 


»» 


O.57 


0.42 


1 9 





O 


9 


Blue ; glazed. Clothing for both sexes. 




» 


» 


O.57 


0.42 


1 9 





O 


9 


The same, but lighter in colour. 




J) 


J) 


O.57 


0.42 


1 9 





O 


9 


The same, but still lighter in colour. 




» 


» 


O.54 


0.40 


1 9 





O 


9 


Grey. Clothing for both sexes. 




» 


)) 


0.54 


0.40 


1 9 





O 


9 


Slatish-blue. Clothing for both sexes. 




>J 


» 


O.64 


0.47 


1 9 





O 


9 


Light green ; glazed and then scraped. 
Clothing for women and children. 




» 


)> 


O.64 


0.47 


1 9 





O 


9 


The same, but of darker colour. 




" 


±» 


O.67 


0.49 


2 





I 


2 


Blue ; glazed and then scraped. Clothing 
for both sexes. 




>> 


5) 


O.84 


0.62 


2 1 





I 


2 


The same, but lighter in colour. 




)) 


J) 


O.67 


0.49 


2 





I 


2 


The same, but with the faintest tinge of 
blue. 




)) 


5) 


O.50 


o.37 


1 7 





I 


1 


Dark blue. Clothing for both sexes. 




)) 


» 


O.50 


0-37 


1 7 





I 


1 


The same, but lighter in colour. 




5) 


)) 


O.SO 


o.37 


1 7 





I 


1 


The same, but still lighter in colour. 



24 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Production- 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



piece Dyed Cloth. 



55 55 



55 55 



55 55 



55 55 



55 55 



55 55 



55 55 



. TnT. 

55 

: m 

55 

mu 

m 
#& 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



32 

m 



pj 






w- 



$£> 



Sungkians 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



25 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.TU. 



Width. 



REMARKS. 



um ±m 



®& 



0.57 
0.57 
0.57 
0.72 
0.64 
0.72 
0.64 

0.73 
0.69 
0.76 
0.71 
0.76 

0.64 
0.76 

0.64 
0.48 
0.48 
0.40 
0.40 
0.40 
0.47 
0.54 
0.60 



0.42 
0.42 
0.42 

0.53 
0.47 

0.53 
0.47 
0.54 
0.51 
0.56 
0.52 
0.56 

0.47 
0.56 

0.47 
0.35 
0.35 
0.30 
0.30 
0.30 

0.35 
0.40 
0.44 



9 o 

9 o 

9 o 

9 5 

7 o 

9 5 

7 o 

9 5 

9 5 

9 S 

7 o 

9 5 

7 o 

9 o 

7 o 

7 o 

7 o 

5 5 

5 5 

5 5 

5 5 

5 o 

5 5 



1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

1 
r 

1 
1 
1 

° 9j 
o gh 

° 9* 
o gh 
o 9 
o g\ 



The same as No. 185. 

The same as No. 186. 

The same as No. 187. 

Black. Clothing for both sexes. 

Finer woven than the preceding. 

Dark violet. Clothing for both sexes. 

The same as the preceding. 

Of a lighter colour and finer woven than 
the preceding. 

Blue. Clothing for both sexes. 

Pink. Clothing for women and children. 

Pea green. The same as No. 163. 

This peculiar yellowish-green tint is obtained 
by first dyeing the material blue and then 
yellow. Used as clothing for women 
and children. 

Turquoise blue. Clothing for women and 

children. 
Light green. Clothing for women and 

children. 

Light olive green. Clothing for women 
and children. 

Slate. Clothing for both sexes. 

Slatish-blue. Clothing for both sexes. 

Dark blue. Clothing for both sexes. 

Same, but of a lighter shade. 

Same, but of a still lighter shade. 

Slatish-mauve. Used in mourning as cloth- 
ing for both sexes. 

Chrome yellow. Used for children's cloth- 
ing. 

Violet ; glazed. Clothing for women and 
children. 



26 



NEW OKLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Pkoduction- 



Name in English. 



piece Dyed Cloth 



>) » 



)5 )> 



1J )) 



)) J> 









$1* 



/I 



» ®m 



Chekiang, Hangchow 



fairs 



Kiangsu, Soochow. 



„ Shanghai 
Chekiang, Shihraen 
Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Chekiang, Huangt'ai 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



27 



Pkovince and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.Tts. 



Length. 



§ 5 * 

o o S 



Width. 



O Ei 



REMARKS. 



mzc *l*h 



£1 






0.46 
0.48 
0.62 
0.48 
0.50 
0.48 

0.54 
0.39 



0.39 
0.39 

0.31 
0.31 
0.31 
0.31 
0.31 

°-34 
0.60 
1.02 
0.50 
0.58 
0.52 



o.34 
0.36 
0.46 
0-3S 
o.37 
0-3S 

0.40 
0.29 



0.29 
0.29 

0.23 
0.23 
0.23 
0.23 
0.23 
0.25 
0.44 
0.75 
o.37 
0.43 
0.38 



222 
200 
225 
1 9 o 
200 
190 

200 
190 



190 
190 

200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
120 
210 
220 
1 5 o 
200 
1 8 o 



1 1 
1 0} 
1 1 

o 8J 

9s 

8i 

1 o 

o 8* 



o 8$ 
o 8| 

° 92 
o 9§ 

o 9\ 

O 92 

9i 

8 

1 1 
1 1 

9 

1 o 
o 9 



Dark blue. Used for lining. 

Orange yellow. For decorative purposes and 
children's clothing. 

Pink. Used for lining. 
Same, but of a darker shade. 
Emerald green. Used for lining. 
Olive green. Used for lining. 

Same, but of a lighter shade. 

Bright yellow. Used for sere garments. 
The privilege of wearing this imperial 
yellow is allowed to those who have 
reached 80 years of age. Used also to 
bury the dead in, and by Buddhist 
priests for long gowns. 

Cardinal red. Used for decorative purposes. 
Same as the above, but of lighter shade. 



Scarlet. A very coarse material ; used as 
lining. 

Orange yellow. A very coarse material; 
used as lining. 

Blue. A very coarse material; used as 
lining. 

Pink. A very coarse material; used as 

lining. 

Emerald green. A very coarse material; 
used as lining. 

Dark blue; glazed and scraped. Clothing 
for both sexes. 

Dark blue ; glazed. Clothing for both sexes. 
Blue. Clothing for both sexes. 



Pea green. Same as No. 163, but glazed. 
Sap green. Same as No. 163. 



28 



NEW OELEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



232 
233 
234 
235 
236 
237 
238 
239 
240 

241 
242 
243 
244 
245 
246 



247 
248 

249 
250 



piece Dyed Cloth 



56 pieces Dyed Cloth . 



15 » 



>> 55 



)) » » 



1 piece Stamped Cloth. 



-j-»-M» 

» VfcMa. 

» X& 



» Mr 



>> ?> 



TOI±«t& 



tmfiBn 



Chekiang, Shihmen 
Kiangsu, Soochow.. 

„ Shanghai 
Hupeh, Hanyang .. 



Kiangsu, Soochow. 



„ Shanghai 



)> )5 



» ra 



m 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



29 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hh.Tts. 



Length. 



S h 



EEMARKS. 






±B 



>) ?) 



urn mm 



±m 



0.58 
0.88 
0.88 
0.70 
1.28 

1. 12 

I.29 
O.88 

1.86 

0.95 
1.28 
1.02 
0.76 
1.05 
9.70 



» » 



1.52 

0.75 
0.80 



043 
0.65 
0.65 
0.56 
0.94 
0.82 
0.95 
0.65 
i-37 

0.70 
0.94 
0.75 
0.56 
0.77 
7.03 



i-37 
1. 12 

0.55 
0.59 



250 
300 
300 
270 
380 
380 

3 1 o 
380 
3 7o 

380 
380 
380 
3 8 o 
380 
1 5 o 



1 o 

1 6 
1 6 

1 2 
1 1 
1 o| 
I o 
I o 

I 
I 
I 

I 
I 
o 7s 



o 5 



200 



1 2 



Blue. Clothing for both sexes. 

Yellow. Same as No. 218. 

Orange. Same use as the preceding. 

Grey. Used by military officers for the long 

gowns worn during a campaign. 
Olive green. The same as No. 163. 

Sap green. Finer than the above, and 

glazed. 
Deep purple. Clothing for both sexes. 

Blue. Clothing for both sexes. 

Black. Clothing for both sexes. Dyed 
blue in first bath, then a darker shade 
in second, and black in third and final 
bath. 

Pink. Clothing for women and children. 

A little coarser and of a lighter shade than 
the preceding. 

Blue. Clothing for both sexes. 

The same as the preceding, but of a lighter 

shade. 
Ash grey. A little finer than the preceding. 

Of various colours. (The average price per 
piece is $0.27.) The price varies ac- 
cording to the colour, the dye vised, and 
the number of times the material is 
placed in the bath. Used for women's 
socks. 

Of various colours. (Average price per piece 
$0.12.) As the preceding, the price 
varies. 

Of various dimensions, colours, and prices. 
Used in coffins for laying over the lime 
on which the dead are placed ; also for 
decorations at funerals. 

White figures on green ground, stamped on 
both sides. Used for covering wadded 
bed quilts and as clothing for children. 

White figures on violet ground, stamped on 
both sides. Same use as the above. 



30 



NEW OKLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production- 



Name in English. 



piece Stamped Cloth 



55 55 



55 55 



55 55 



55 55 



55 55 



55 55 



55 55 



55 55 



piece Fancy Cloth 



$bW&mw& Kian s su > sha *g hai 



Wk 



&m 



mMi& 



Hi 



Hupeh, Hanyang 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



-The above samples of stamped cloth (Nos. 249-264) are but a few varieties of the material use 
the Chinese on account of its durability. The figuring is done by means of linn 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



31 



'rovince and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



UM ±f» 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.Tts. 



O.70 
O.61 

0.65 
O.64 
O.57 

0.57 
O.63 

O.63 

O.72 
O.72 
O.71 

O.99 
I.I4 
1. 12 

1. 14 

O.72 



O.83 



Length. 



1 3* „- 

O O & 



O.S2 
0.4S 

O.48 
0.47 
0.42 
0.42 
O.46 

O.46 
0-53 

o.S3 
0.52 

o.73 
0.84 
0.82 



o.53 
o-35 
0.61 
0.^2 



Width. 



5 h 



2 2 

i 9 o 

1 9 6 
190 
170 
170 
1 9 6 

1 9 6 

1 9 o 
190 
200 

3 7o 
3 8 o 
3 7o 

380 

3 7o 
230 

380 

170 



BEMARKS. 



I 2 
I l| 

I I* 

I 2 

I I 

I I 

I 2 

I 2 

I 2 
I 2 
I 2 

I I* 

I I 

I Ij 

I I 

I I* 



White figures on blue ground, stamped on 
■both sides. Same use as the above. 

Same as the above. The pattern is called 
ssu clii hua, or "flowers of the four sea- 
sons :" the peach, the lotus, the chrysan- 
themum, and epindendrum. 

White figures on blue ground, stamped on 
both sides. Same use as the above. 

Same as the above. 



Diners from the above only in being of a 

lighter shade of blue. 
White figures on blue ground, stamped on 

both sides. Pattern called "butterfly 

and epidendrum." 

The same as the above. The design is 
plum blossoms, chrysanthemums, and 
bamboo leaves. 

Blue figures on white ground, stamped on 
both sides. 

Same as the above. 

White figures on blue ground ; stamped 
only on one side. Used solely for cover- 
ing wadded bed quilts. 

Same as the above. 



Blue and white stripes. Used for clothing 
for both sexes. 

Blue mottled. Used for clothing for both 
sexes. 

Blue and white plaid. Used for covering 
wadded bed quilts. 

Blue and white check. Used for covering 
wadded bed quilts. 

Same as the above. 



UM -£?# a4 3 °-3 2 1701-3 

very largely in clothing for children, principally girls, up to the age of 14. It is in great favour with 
which is applied through oiled parchment, on which the design is cut out. 



32 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 





ARTICLE. 


Place of Production — 


No. 


Name in English. 


Name in Chinese. 


Name in English. 


270 


I piece Fancy Cloth 




Kiangsu, Shanghai 






371 


r 


IT* !La 


» » 






m 


T 


MW^lEl 


11 11 






273 


j 


*ji^^K6 


Chekiang, Hangchow 






374 


j 


$Pli«P^& 


n » 






275 


T 


2$$£P3& 


>j 11 






27fi 




ft 








277 




19 & 








378 




ffi3MM*£ 
ft 


Honan, Hanyang ... 






279 


2 „ 


P4& 


11 11 ••• 






280 




ft 


11 11 ••• 






381 






11 11 "• 






383 


2 , 






383 




Kiangsu, Soochow... 


?84 




385 








386 








387 




11 


» 11 ••• 







CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



33 



Province and Town, 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Length. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.Tts. 



Width. 






REMARKS. 



um m 



}■> » 



» » 



j» ?j 



)> » 



M ^P 



» 5) 



Wit f 1 



)J 5) 



» » 



frU Mi 



» 5) 



» )) 



)) » 



)> )5 



0.28 
O.58 

0.43 
0.55 



i 7 o 



0.43 176 



0.32 
0.41 



0.55 J 0.41 



0.55 

1. 14 

1. 14 

R piece. 
I.67 

I.26 



1-35 



1. 54 
1.22 

1,22 
M3 



0.41 
0.84 

0.84 

$ piece. 
I.23 

0.93 



O.74 



O.99 



i-33 



I-I3 

0.90 
0.90 
0.83 



170 

225 
225 
222 
030 

030 

034 
032 
030 

3 3 

o 5 7 

056 



o 5 4$ 

O 5 2| 

o 5 5 

o 5 4 



25 

1 

1 

1 

6 



7* 

1\ 



3 9 

3 7h 

3 9 

3 7 

3 9 

3 9 



Same as the above. 



Blue and white plaid. Same use as the 
preceding. 

Blue, white, and yellow plaid. Same use as 
the preceding. 

Blue mottled. Clothing for both sexes. 

Blue and white stripes. Imitation of grass- 
cloth. Same use as the preceding. 

Same as the above. 

Wool worked over a cotton ground. Used 
by Chinese for laying across saddles, or 
to sit on in carriages. 



J! !l )) l> 



Camels' hair worked over a cotton ground. 
Used by Chinese for rolling up their 
bedding in, or for spreading it upon 
when travelling. The design, a wild goose, 
is the emblem of conjugal fidelity and 
affection, an image of which is wor- 
shipped by newly-married couples. 

Goats' hair worked over a cotton ground. 
Of various colours and designs. Same 
use as the above. 

Same as the preceding. 



34 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ABTTCLE. 



Place of Production- 



No. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



288 



S Rugs. 



289 
290 
291 
292 
293 
294 
295 
296 
297 
298 
299 
300 
301 
302 
303 
304 



Bug. 



Carpet 

1 piece Carpeting . 

1 » 

1 » 

1 » 

1 » 

1 » 

1 » 

1 » 

1 » 

1 » 

1 » 



3M§S 



» -i 

I 






Kiangsu, Soochow 



Shensi, Hanchung 



Kiangsu, Soochow 



Hupeh, Hanyang 



5> 55 



» » 



JJ 5> 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



35 



Province and Town, 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hh.Tfs. 



Length. 



S 6 s 



Width. 



REMARKS, 



UM »I 



wmm*¥ 



m 



mi 



? piece. 

1.47 



i piece. 

1.06 



2.27 

1.67 

1-59 
36.61 

p chang. 
0.30 

O.30 

0.33 
0.26 
O.I8 

0.39 
O.42 
O.42 
O.42 
O.42 
O.42 
O.I6 



I.67 
1.23 
I.I7 

26.92 

f chang 
0.22 

0.22 

O.24 

O.19 

O.13 

O.29 

O.3I 

O.3I 

O.3I 

0.3I 

O.31 

O.I2 



056 



3 7 



o 3 1 
o 3 1 
o 3 1 
120 



5 2 

5 2 

5 2 

12 o 

1 oj 



I o 

I li 

1 of 

I of 

1 of 

I I* 

I I 

o 8f 



These differ from the preceding in the 
design being painted instead of partly 
woven through. The figuring is done by 
hand over a stencilled outline. The 
various designs as depicted on these rugs 
would baffle the descriptive power of a 
naturalist; and to reconcile the names as 
given by the manufacturers with the 
forms they are supposed to represent, it 
is necessary to imagine such forms as 
being reflected from the convex surface of 
a spoon. The principal designs attempted 
are supposed to represent the wild goose ; 
the stork, the emblem of longevity ; the 
phcenix, the emblem of the Empress 
(applied to her poetically as incompar- 
able) ; and the lion, which is supposed 
to be a felicitous animal, and used in 
wedding decorations and presents. 

Used for spreading bedding on or rolling up 
the same. Red. 

Same as the above. Pinkish-white. 
Same as the above. Grey. 
Wool over a cotton ground. 
All cotton. Various colours. 



All cotton. Various colours. Very coarse. 



All cotton. Blue and white. 



36 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production- 



Name in English. 



piece Carpeting . 



3 Rugs 



Towelling, 1 length (10 pieces) 
» 1 » (10 ., ) 



mm® & 



j> )) 



mm 



Honan, Nanyang . . 






Hupeh, Hanyang ... 



Honan, Nanyang .. 

Kiangsu, Soochow. . . 
Honan, Kuanghua 

Kiangsu, Shanghai.. 



-The above carpeting (Nos. 293-322) may be made in any lengths or sizes. Being used almost 

which condition 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



37 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Length. 



Width. 






REMARKS. 



fait ifli 



m mm 



mm it pi 

>> >> 

\m mm 
ma %& 

55 55 

f m m 



$ cliang. 
O.42 

0.54 

0.54 
0.54 
0.49 
0.50 
o.54 
0.54 
0.42 
0.42 
0.42 
0.42 
0.52 
0.30 
0.15 
0.15 
0.31 
0.31 

f piece. 
I.47 

O.67 

O.59 

Hength. 
O.46 

O.46 



f cliang. 
O.31 

O.40 

O.40 

O.40 

O.36 

0.37 
O.4O 
O.40 
O.31 
O.3I 
0.3I 
0.3I 
O.38 
0.22 
O.I I 
O.I I 

0.23 
0.23 

ft piece. 
I.06 

O.49 

0-43 

$ length. 
0.34 

0.34 



056 
047 

4 5 

1 5 o 

1 5 5 



1 i| 

1 1 

° 9i 

I o 

I ll 

1 o\ 

1 o| 

I o 

I 2 

I 2 

I 2 

I 2 

1 *l 

1 O 

o 9 

o 9 

O 9 

9 

3 7 

3 o 

2 7 
o 8 

o 9 



All cotton. Blue and white. 
All cotton. Various colours. 



All cotton. Various colours. Very coarse. 



All cotton. Various colours. Partly stamped. 

Cotton and wool. Stamped colours. 

The same as No. 288. 

Pelt. For wrapping up bedding. 

Same as the above. 

White figures on blue ground. 

Blue figures on white ground. 



solely as rugs to spread bedding on, it is cut into 
it is sold. 



suitable lengths, and four pieces stitched together, in 



3S 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 8 84- 5. 



No. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



328 

329 
330 
331 
332 

333 
334 
335 
336 
337 
338 
339 
340 
341 
342 
343 
344 
345 

346 
347 
348 
349 



Towelling, 1 length 



Waist Sash 



10 pieces) 

4 » ) 

4 » ) 

10 „ ) 

10 „ ) 



) 



(10 » ) 



w> 



& 






6 



& 



tt^rti& 












\m 



m& 



& 



Kiangsu, Shanghai, 



Chekiang, Ningpo 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Chekiang, Hangchow 
Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Note. — The term Kaoli, or Corean, by which the absve variety of Towels (Nos. 326-335) is known, is 





CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 39 


Province and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 






Name in Chinese. 


Amer. 

Gold $. 


Kli.Tts. 


5b 

1 
O 


O 


S 


eS 


REMARKS. 




um±m 


$ length. 
O.46 


$ length. 
0.34 


I 


7 





9 


Blue figures on white ground. 




55 )> 


O.46 


0.34 


I 


5 


5 


9 


,» 




M » 


O.23 


O.17 


O 


8 


5 


8| 


Blue figures on white ground. Woven with 
double yarn. 




» » 


0.39 


O.29 


I 


5 


5 


8 


Blue. 




» 55 


O.42 


O.3I 


I 


6 





9 


Blue figures on white ground. 




55 35 


O.3I 


O.23 


I 


6 


S 


9 


White. 




33 J5 


O.30 


0.22 


I 


6 


5 


9 


» 




35 33 


0.22 


O.I6 


I 


2 





... 


» 




» 33 


0.31 


O.23 


I 


4 


5 


1 3 


White. Woven with double yarn. 




53 55 


O.25 


O.I8 


I 


3 





1 2 


Same as the preceding. 




55 55 


O.I8 


O.I3 


O 


8 


5 


8| 


» ., 




mtc mm 


O.I6 


O.I2 


O 


9 





8 


White. 




55 ii 


O.26 


0.I9 


2 








7 


Blue and white stripes. 




55 35 


O.I2 


O.I I 


I 


2 





7 


Blue mottled. 




tt«±j» 


O.4I 


O.30 


2 








7§ 


Blue and white stripes. 




55 53 


O.I8 


O.I3 


O 


8 


S 


8 


Blue. 




35 55 


O.15 


O.I I 


O 


5 


5 


6§ 


White. 




55 33 


O.28 


0.21 


I 


6 





8J 


White. Cut into suitable pieces when used 
for towellings ; used also in the manufac- 
ture of beancurd. 




mtt mm 


0.34 

^ piece. 
O.30 


0.25 

$ piece. 
0.22 


I 
I 


5 
4 




5 


7i 
6 


Blue and white. 
Blue. 




55 33 


O.30 


0.22 


O 


9 





7 


Blue and white. 




S» 55 


O.30 


0.22 


I 


4 


5 


6| 


White. 



applied probably through it being an imitation of a similar material manufactured in the Hermit Kingdom. 



40 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 



No. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



350 
351 
352 
353 
354 
355 

356 
357 
358 
359 
360 
361 

362 

363 
364 

365 
366 

367 
368 
369 



Waist Sash 



Bed Curtain 



Bed Curtain Top 



5) )) 

13 Bed Curtain Hangings. 
4 » >> )> 



5 Table-covers 



Table-cover 



>) )> 



)> )> 



» » 






Kiangsu, Shanghai 



■££ 






)5 )) 



It )) 



wmwm 



11 )> 



„ ^ 



&£ 



Hupeh, Hanyang 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Soochow 



)> )> 



» )J 



)) )> 



Shensi, Hanchung 



11 ■>■> 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



41 



Province and Town 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Length. 



o o h 



Width. 



REMARKS. 



m mm 



0.30 
0.30 
0.30 
0.31 
O.I2 
1.88 

1.63 
1.76 
1.01 
0.60 
0.67 
0.15 



)) » 



m m* 



0.08 


0.06 


0.08 


0.06 


0.54 


0.40 


O.S4 


0.40 


0.54 


0.40 


O.S4 


0.40 


1.09 


0.80 


0.84 


0.62 



160 
140 
o 7 5 



' piece, 

0.22 i 6 o 

0.22 ! 1 5 5 

0.22 

0.23 

0.09 

i-33 

1.20 
1.30 
0.74 
0.44 
0.49 
0.1 1 



o 6| 

o 1\ 

o t\ 

o 5 

o Si 



050 



050 



042 



044 
026 



026 



2 5 



2 5 



2 8 



2 8 



2 6 
2 6 



Black. 
Pink. 
Green. 
Blue. 

White with blue figures. 

White. 
)> 

n 

Blue design stamped on white ground. 



Stamped design. Used to ornament the 
front of bed curtains, and hung lengthwise 
at the top. 

Foreign cotton brocades ; stencilled design. 
For same use as the above. 

Foreign shirtings. The same as the above. 

Felt. Goats' hair and cotton. Red and 
yellow. Sold by the piece, which makes 
two covers. The design on one side is 
for chess. 

Of same material as the above. Blue. 
Used by tailors for spreading on their 
working table, around which they sit. 

Red. Same as the preceding, but also used 
for spreading on floor when the New Tear 
or ceremonial prostrations, called the 
k'ou-t'ou, have to be gone through. 

White. Used as No. 365. 
Red. Felt. 
Blue. Felt. 



42 



NEW OKLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



No. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Place of Production — 



Name in Chinese. Name in English. 



370 

371 
372 

373 

374 
375 



9 Clothes Wrappers . 

3 » » 
Cord 



20 Cue Cords 



376 
377 
378 
379 
380 
381 
382 
383 

384 
385 
386 



IS » » 

20 „ „ 

13 Waist Cords 

5 „ Bands 

5 )> 5) 

13 » » 

3 5> 55 

i pair Ankle Bands 



9 parrs „ 



21 



tm^m$ 












Hfi 






Kiangsu, Shanghai 

Chekiang, Ningpo 
Kiangsu, Soochow 



Hupeh, Hanyang , 



Kiangsu, Soochow. 
Chihli, Tientsin.... 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



43 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



.A roer. 
Gold $. 



Hk. Tts. 



Length. 



"Width. 



REMARKS. 






55 55 

m mm 

55 55 

5) 55 

us k& 

55 55 



0.29 

Apiece. 

O.19 

<8> piece. 
O.61 



O.29 

£ ca«2/. 



2.42 
I.67 



0.57 
1-65 
°-33 

O.I2 
O.I2 
1.38 
O.46 
O.07 

0.08 
O.67 
I.07 



0.2I 

Apiece. 

0.I4 

SIP piece. 
O.45 



0.21 

$ catty. 

1.78 

$ ca%. 

1.23 



O.42 
1.22 
O.24 
O.09 
O.09 
I.02 

0.34 
O.05 

O.06 
O.49 
O.79 



O29 



3 5 



2 9 



o \\ 



o ii 



Stamped design. Used for wrapping up 
cloth articles. Stamped in four lengths 
and stitched together. 

The same as the preceding, but of coarser 
material. 

Of different sizes and colours. The manu- 
facture of this cord is confined to women 
and children, and the cost of labour is 
$0.10 per catty. 

This quality is made only in the two colours 
shown, blue and white, and is sold in 
lengths of 14 ch'ili; it is used for tying 
up bedding. 

Of various colours. The cost of labour is 
$0.94 per catty. 

The blue is a lesser mourning than the 
white, which is deep. Used for fastening 
the ends of cues, or pig-tails, which are 
plaited. The cue coiffiwe is peculiar to 
this dynasty, and was introduced 260 
years ago. 



For same use as the preceding. 
Same as the above, but black. 

Mixture of brown and white cotton. 

White. 

Blue and white. 

Mixture of foreign and Chinese yam. 

For binding around socks when the trousers 
are tucked in, or simply binding the top 
of socks to give a neat appearance. Made 
from foreign yarn. White. 

Blue and white. Same as the above. 
Variegated. Same as the above. 
Same as the above. 



44 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 



AETICLE. 



No. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



387 

388 
389 

390 
391 
392 
393 
394 
395 
396 
397 
398 
399 
400 
401 
402 
403 
404 
405 

406 
407 



7 pairs Ankle Bands 

3 J) 5) » 

Braid 



9 rolls Tape 
9 » » 
6 „ „ 

25 >) )) 
2 >) j) 
12 jj „ 

1 >j >) 
1 piece „ 
9 pieces „ 
Tape 



39 pieces Fancy Trimmings. 

*5 )> )5 J' 

Lampwick 



w&& 






*tt^ 






& 

»*$&\ 
^#^ 






Ohihli, Tientsin. 



3) J» •■•••• 

Kiangsu, Soochow... 
„ T'ungchow 

Hupeh, Hanyang . . 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Chekiang, Ningpo., 



Hupeh, Hanyang . . 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



45 



Province and Town 



Name in Chinese. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.Tts. 



Length. 



Width. 



REMARKS. 






«* mm 



Sfft WM 



Ift ^H 



» » 



0.35 



2.69 

I? catty. 
O.68 
O.48 
1.25 
2.58 
0.26 
O.63 
O.IO 
O.I2 
O.26 

O.03 

3 2 ctoi# 

O.04 

J 2 chang 

O.03 

3 2 eftaw? 

O.88 

B> catty. 

O.64 

£ catty. 

I.02 

£ catty. 
O.30 

P piece. 



O.07 



O.41 

$ catty. 



O.26 



O.08 

I.98 

$> catty 

O.50 

0-3S 
O.92 
I.90 
O.I9 
O.46 
O.07 
O.O9 
O.I9 

0.02 

3 2 chang 
O.03 

' 2 chang 
0.02 

! 2 chang 
O.65 

3 catty. 
O.47 

f? catty. 

0.75 

f? catty. 
0.2I 

3 piece. 



O.05 



O.30 

$ catty. 



O Oft 



For fastening trousers at the ankle. Called 
the "shou character hand," as the figure 
in the pattern is the word shou, or old 
age. Foreign yarn. 

For the same use as the ahove. 



Various colours. 

Each roll measures 32 ch'ih. 
Each roll measures 24 ch'ih. 

Each roll measures 40 ch'ih. Used for 
binding the dwarfed feet of women. 

Bach roll measures 20 ch'ih. Used as the 
above. 

Each roll measures 28 ch'ih. 

Each roll measures 15 ch'ih. 

Measures 19 ch'ih. 

Variegated. For binding dwarfed feet. 

Same use as the above. 

Blue and white. Sold by the chi, or length, 
measuring 36 ch'ih. 

Various colours. Same as the above. 

Various colours. Sold by the chi, or length, 
measuring 24 ch'ih. 



Woven from English cotton yarn. The 
gloss is given by calendering between 
heavy stones. Of various patterns. Used 
for ornamenting the clothing of women. 
Each piece measures 48 ch'ih. 

Narrower than the preceding ; otherwise the 
same. Each piece 36 ch'ih. 



4 6 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



No. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



408 
409 
410 
411 
412 
413 
414 
415 
416 
417 
418 

419 
420 
421 
422 
423 



Laropwick ... 
Cotton Yarn , 
Thread 



Cobblers' Cord 

Artificial Cloth Flowers 



424 
425 
426 
427 



1 piece Lining for Bed Quilt . . 
1 » m » 

I J) 5J » 

Bed Quilt with Cotton Lining 
5 Bed Quilts 



3 pieces Lining for Bed Quilt. 

1 » » » 

Bed Quilt 









mmm& 



nrnm 



Kiangsu, Shanghai. 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



HEIR 6 



Hupeh, Hanyang 



CATALOGUE OP THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



47 



Pbovince and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Length. 



Width. 



REMARKS. 



55 55 

55 55 

55 55 

55 55 

55 55 



um ±\ 



55 55 



55 55 



55 55 



S94&8 



0.41 

$ catty. 
41.OO 



4I.OO 

■P picw?, 
48.OO 
$ pieirf, 
54.OO 



54.00 



41.00 

^picul. 
I.36 

COS 
$ pair. 

O.05 

$ piece, 



I.25 
O.76 
0.95 
2.00 

I.44 

P piece. 



2.82 
O.97 
4.85 
473 



O.30 

$ catty, 

30.OO 

$ picisJ. 
30.OO 
$ picwZ, 
3S.OO 
3£ picul. 
40.OO 
$ picul. 
40.OO 
$picul. 



30.OO 

ul 



1. 00 

i) catty. 

O.04 
$f pair. 

O.04 

$ piece. 



O.92 
O.56 
O.70 
1.47 

I.06 

P piece. 



2.08 
0.71 

3-57 
348 



White. 

White. Sold in skeins. 

Blue. Sold in skeins. 

Various colours. Sold in skeins. Coloured 
with aniline dyes. 

Foreign yarn, native dyed. 



Used for stitching the soles of boots and 
shoes. 

For decorative purposes. 

For the hair ; used by women. 

For encircling the knob of hair at the back 
of the head. This style of dressing the 
hair is peculiar to the women of Kiangsu, 
and to a certain class of women of 
Kwangtung. 

Sold by weight. This is encased in either 
a cloth or silk covering. 

Of inferior cotton to the preceding. 

Brown cotton. 

Covered with printed cloth. 

These are filled with the cotton lining 
described above. Cloth of the pattern 
of which these quilts are made is not to 
be obtained in cloth stores. It is woven 
at homesteads for the sole purpose of 
making bed quilts. The labour makes it 
too expensive for those who use native 
cloth, and silk or foreign material is 
preferred by those who can afford it. 



Differs from the preceding in not being 
threaded. 

Green Spanish stripes ; silk embroidered. 
Red Spanish stripes ; silk embroidered. 



4 8 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. Name in English. 



Bed Quilt 



tm&wm 



>, &£#** 



mm 



Winter Outfit for Gentleman of Literary 
Class (middle station), 14 pieces. 

Summer Outfit for Gentleman of Li- 
terary Class (middle station), 8 
pieces. 

Autumn Outfit for Gentleman of Li- 
terary Class (middle station), 9 
pieces. 

Winter Outfit for Gentleman of Mer- 
cantile Class (middle station), 14 
pieces. 

Summer Outfit for Gentleman of Mer- 
cantile Class (middle station), 7 
pieces. 



fPEffitfc 






Hupeh, Hanyang , 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



49 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.Tts. 



REMARKS. 



i4b mm 



)5 » 



» J? 



^ 



4-53 
3-68 

2.47 



6.70 
31-73 
49-57 

5-7i 



3-33 
2.71 
1.82 



2.27 


1.67 


2.42 


1.78 


3-83 


2.82 


3-43 


2.52 


2.83 


2.08 


4-57 


3-4i 



1.80 


1-33 


1.60 


1. 18 


1.26 


0-93 


I.3I 


0.96 


56.21 


41-33 



4-93 
23-33 

36.45 
4.20 



Red Spanish stripes ; silk embroidered. 



Red Spanish stripes, with silk embroidered 
trimming. A Chinese bed is ' ' made " 
by folding the quilt lengthwise and laying 
it at the back of the bed, which is in- 
variably placed against a wall. The 
trimming which ornaments it is meant 
to show it off when so folded. 

Red long ells, with silk embroidered trim- 
ming. 

Green long ells, with velvet and silk rib- 
bon trimming. 

Black satin, with silk embroidered trimming. 

Red silk, with silk embroidered trimming. 

Blue silk, with silk embroidered trimming. 

The figured silk with which this quilt is 
faced is manufactured at Kingehow, a 
large commercial town in Hupeh, and is 
used exclusively for bed coverlets. 

Blue cotton, with white figuring stamped. 
Same as the above. 



Coarse cloth, made from brown cotton. 



SO 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Production- 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



Autumn Outfit for Gentleman of Mer- 
cantile Class (middle station), 9 
pieces. 

Winter Outfit for a Farmer (middle 
station), 14 pieces. 

Summer Outfit for a Farmer (middle 
station), 3 pieces. 

Autumn Outfit for a Farmer (middle 
station), 5 pieces. 






MR 

7& 



W8. 



Bamboo Jacket... 

„ Vest 

„ Jacket... 
Man's Trousers ..., 

„ Apron 

,. Long Coat. 



Jacket , 

Long Coat. 



Jacket . . . 
Trousers 



mm 

mm 
mm 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Chekiang, Ningpo., 



Hupeh, Hanyang 



Rote. — The dress of the Chinese has been described as "commodious and graceful, combining all the 
fashions change ; but so locally, so seldom, and so unstrikingly, that garments are handed 
restrictions -which were at one time placed upon dress, by which the use of silk was limited 
government of the present dynasty not been enforced ; though the use of certain colours is 
for sere garments and for burying the dead in ; and its use by Buddhist priests is also 
appropriated by the literati ; and of this colour are officials gowns made, which bear the insignia 
usurped by Chinese in the employ of foreigners at the Treaty Ports, and passed unnoticed, 
gentler sex is under the same laws which control that of the men, and seldom can a sight 
husbands; splendid in the rich silks, costly furs, brilliant colours, and beautiful embroidery 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



51 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Anier. 
Gold $. 



Length. 



REMARKS. 



&j§ ±m 



m& mm 



m&$ 



m 



26.52 



8.61 



1.59 



4.76 



19.50 



6-33 



1.17 



3-So 



0.90 


O.66 


0.58 


0.43 


0.64 


O.47 


3-17 


2 -33 


1. 18 


0.87 


1.32 


0.97 


1.36 


1. 00 


1.41 


1.04 


1.18 


0.87 


0.88 


0.65 


0.96 


0.71 


1.21 


0.89 


I.06 


0.78 


1.22 


0.90 



Used by boatmen and coolies. Peculiar to 

Ningpo. 
Used by boatmen. Peculiar to Ningpo. 



purposes of warmth, beauty, and ease." Though the present style has been in existence for centuries, 
down from generation to generation, and worn without the fear of exhibiting obsolete raiment. The 
to the literati, and the infringement of which law was dealt with as a misdemeanour, have during the 
still guarded by statutes. Yellow, recognised as the Imperial colour, may be used only by the multitude 
permitted, though the privilege subjects them to the ridicule of the educated. Deep purple is 
of rank, an embroidered badge on the breast and back. Though the wearing of this colour is often 
such an infringement would not be tolerated at any of the provincial capitals. The dress of the 
more gay be seen than a company of ladies attired in the paraphernalia which pertain to the rank of their 
that adorn them. 



52 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 8 84- 5. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production- 



Name in English. 



Man's Leggings... 
Long Coat. 



» 5) 

Jacket .. 



» 



Trousers . 



Leggings 



Vest 



Mourning Coat. 



5) 
5) 



^M\ 






Hupeh, Hanyang 



-The laws which govern the rites and practices observed in mourning in China are severe in the 
or if an official, to denouncement to the Throne, terminating in dismissal, degradation, or 
being the most diffuse. An elder "brother wears a lesser degree of mourning for a younger 
indications of his loss. On the death of a parent the mourning is donned in seven days, which 
mean 27 months, no silks nor satins nor red garments must be worn. The garment here 
mourning, which lasts from 49 to 60 days from the day of decease. Ordinary mourning is made 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



S3 



Province and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 






Name in Chinese. 


Amer. 
Gold $. 


Hk. Tts. 


Chang. 
Ts'un. 


£ 


REMARKS. 




flffi-M 


O.41 


O.3O 










» j> 


0.58 


0.43 


... 


... 






» » 


2.84 


2.09 


... 


... 






)) » 


I.63 


1. 21 


... 


... 


- 




» V 


1.85 


I.36 


... 


... 






» » 


1.26 


0.93 


... 


... 






» » 


I.60 


I.I8 


... 


... 






}> )) 


I.4I 


I.04 


... 


... 






)) )5 


O.97 


O.7I 


... 


... 






J» » 


1-75 


1. 19 


... 


... 






5> )5 


0.41 


O.30 


... 








>J J> 


0.50 


0.37 




... 






» » 


0.61 


O.45 




... 






)> » 


0.33 


O.24 


... 


... 






» }> 


0.34 


O.25 










» » 


0.31 


0.23 


... 


... 






» J> 


0.15 


O.I I 


... 


... 






» » 


0.58 


0.43 


... 








» )) 


0.56 


O.4I 










» » 


0.41 


O.3O 




... 






J» 5J 


0.34 


O.25 






The ends are slipped under the waist sash. 




}> )> 


0.45 


°-33 









extreme, an omission of a trivial nature subjecting the delinquent to the contempt of his neighbours, 
amercement. Observances differ according to kindred or seniority, those following the death of a parent 
than the latter would for the former ; while for a wife the husband is not expected to exhibit any 
is immediately after the completion of the first rites ; and for three years, which is understood to 
exhibited is not so often worn as those made of sackcloth, and is only used during the period of intense 
in the same style as everyday clothing, but in suitable material and colours. 



54 



NEW OELEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Pkoduction- 



Name in English. 



Soldier's Uniform, Coat and Trousers. 



Woman's Jacket . . 
Trousers. 



Jacket. . . 
Trousers. 
Jacket... 
Trousers. 
Jacket. . . , 
Trousers. 
Jacket... 
Trousers. 
Jacket... 
Trousers. 
Jacket..., 
Trousers. 
Jacket,... 
Trousers. 
Skirt .... 
Jacket... 






-mm. 

» If 



» mm 



#>& 



Trousers ! „ ^|f 

Jacket „ ^^>5 

„ ! » W% 



Hupeh, Hanyang , 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



55 



Province and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 






Name in Chinese. 


Amer. 

Gold $. 


Hk.Tti. 


Chang. 
Ch'ih. 
Ts'un. 


d s 


REMARKS. 




si* mm 


I.64 


I.20 






The writing on the breast and back shows 
the command and camp to which he 
belongs. 




>) )) 


O.79 


0.58 










55 5) 


O.86 


O.63 










> 55 55 


1.52 


1. 12 










55 5) 


0.34 


O.25 










55 55 


O.97 


O.7I 










55 55 


O.56 


O.4I 










55 55 


I.OI 


O.74 










55 55 


O.4I 


O.3O 










55 55 


O.95 


O.70 










55 55 


O.48 


o-3S 










55 55 


O.56 


0.41 










55 55 


0.33 


0.24 










55 55 


I.26 


o.93 










55 55 


O.68 


0.50 










55 55 


O.50 


o.37 










55 55 


O.46 


o.34 










55 55 


O.97 


0.71 










55 55 


I.64 


1.20 










55 55 


1. 12 


0.82 






Sleeveless. 




55 55 


O.86 


0.63 










35 55 


1. 12 


0.82 










55 55 


O.80 


o.59 










55 55 


O.86 


0.63 









56 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



No. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Pboduction- 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



510 
511 
512 
513 
514 
515 
516 
517 
518 
519 
520 
521 
522 
523 
524 
525 
526 
527 
528 
529 
530 
531 
532 
533 



Woman's Jacket . . . 
„ Trousers 
„ Jacket . . . 
„ Trousers , 
„ Jacket... 



„ Trousers , 

„ Mourning Skirt 

„ „ Long Jacket 

3 pairs Woman's Leggings , 

3 suits Girl's Clothing 

1 4 pairs Woman's Socks 

12 „ Child's Stockings 

1 pair Soldier's „ 



3 pairs Man's 

3 » 

4 „ 

6 „ 



Soles . 



Socks . 



Stockings 

6 Man's Coat Collars 

1 pair Ear Covers 









m & 



BD J 



» mz 

n mm 

>h®m 

tm 

>j 

mm 



Hupeh, Hanyang 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



57 



Province and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 






Name in Chinese. 


Amer. 
Gold $. 


Hk.Tts. 


Chang. 
Ch'ih. 
Ts'un. 


6 £ 


REMABKS. 




m mm 


I.67 


I.23 










)> » 


1. 12 


O.82 




... 






55 55 


1.63 


I.20 










55 )) 


1.47 


I.IO 


... 


... 






55 55 


2.83 


2.08 


... 




Lined with imitation lambs' skin. 




55 55 


i-35 


O.99 


... 


■ ••• 






55 55 


I.IO 


O.8I 


... 


... 






55 55 


0.46 


0.34 




... 






5) )) 


o.35 


O.26 










55 55 


0.38 


0.28 










55 55 


0.76 


0.56 










)) 55 


2-53 


1.86 










55 )) 


0.58 


0.43 




... 






55 55 


1.51 


1. 11 




... 






55 55 


0.26 


0.19 










55 55 


0.72 


o-S3 




... 






55 55 


0.56 


0.41 


... 








)) )) 


0.98 


0.72 










55 )) 


0.26 


0.19 




... 






um ±m 


0.50 


o.37 




... 


Embroidered seam. The style is peculiar 
to Peking and thereabouts. 




55 55 


0.87 


0.64 






Same style as the preceding. 




55 55 


0.50 


o.37 










55 55 


0.42 


0.31 






Stitched to the inside of the coat and worn 
erect. 




55 55 


0.14 


O.IO 




... 





58 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



No. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place op Production- 



Name in English. 



534 
535 
536 
537 
538 
539 
540 
541 
542 
543 



544 

545 
546 
547 
548 
549 
550 
551 
552 
553 
554 
555 



Man's Winter Hood , 

12 pairs Woman's Socks 

2 „ Child's Stockings 

2 pairs Woman's Knee Trousers. 

4 Woman's Stomachers 

Child's Jacket 

» Bib 

2 pairs Soldier's Gaiters 

4 Woman's Head Wrappers 

5 „ Fillets 



Girl's Fillet. 



2 Woman's Fillets 

5 )> 5) 

2 „ Stomachers . 
pair Man's Boots 



5» )5 J> 

„ „ Shoes 



kwm 

mm 



k&m 

km 



kwm 

A"! 

)> 

mm 

ism 

mm 

mm 

mm 

m » 

mm 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Hupeh, Hanyang . 
Chekiang, Ningpo. 

Hupeh, Hanyang 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



59 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.Tts. 



Length. 



§ a* * 

>« r<5 ,01 

O O bn 



Width. 



REMARKS. 



&M ±°B 



mm 



m 



0.54 
0.80 

0.34 
0.20 
0.41 
0.23 
0.16 

0.34 
0.27 

I.OI 



0.40 
0.59 
0.25 
0.15 
0.30 
0.17 
0.12 
0.25 
0.20 
0.74 



0.15 



0.22 


0.16 


0.42 


0.31 


O.I I 


0.08 


0.80 


0.59 


1. 10 


0.81 


0.92 


0.68 


1-35 


0.99 


i-35 


0.99 


0.57 


0.42 


o.34 


0.25 


0.30 


0.22 



Fastened to the leg by garters and exposed 
below the outer trousers and skirt. 

Suspended from a cord passing round the 
neck, and worn innermost. 



Bound round the head during cold weather. 
Used only by the common people. 

This shape is only worn by married women. 
Those exhibited are for mourning, as 
those in use are usually of silk or foreign 
material, and, among wealthy people, are 
studded with pearls and ornamented with 
gold. 

This shape is only worn by unmarried 
women. Like the preceding, the costliness 
depends on the means of the wearer. 

Like No. 543, but more ornamented. 

Same as the preceding. 

Same as No. 538, but with pocket attached. 

Official. 

Hob-nailed. For wet weather. 

Official mourning. 

For burying the dead in. 

Satin ; lined and wadded. 

Wadded. 



Worn by the labouring class when in their 
"best." 

The same. 



6o 



NEW OELEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ABTICLE. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



pair Man's Shoes 



Boots 



Shoes 



mm 

m%m 

mm 

mmm 

mm 

m^m 

» 
mwm 
m&m 
m$sm 

» 
mm 

m^m 



m^ 



Hupeh, Hanyang . . , 



Kiangsu, Chinkiang 
„ Shanghai 

Chihli, Tientsin .... 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



6l 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 

Gold $. 



Hk.TtS. 



Length. 



EEMARKS. 



mm i 



rci 






WM Jim 



0.34 
0.30 
0.48 

0.54 

0.53 

0.50 

0.68 
0.63 
O.S7 

1.26 

1. 12 

1.51 

0.62 

I.OI 

0.76 
0.76 

0.9s 
0.95 
0.54 

0.46 
0.42 

0.84 

0.42 

0.48 



0.25 
0.22 

0.35 

0.40 
o-39 
o.37 
0.50 
0.46 
0.42 

o.93 
0.82 
1. 11 
0.46 
0.74 
0.56 
0.56 
0.70 
0.70 
0.40 

o.34 
0.31 
0.62 
0.31 
o-3S 



The same. 

Worn by the same class in mourning. 

Mourning. 



Mourning. 

Coil' and leather soles. For wet weather. 
Hob-nailed. For wet weather. 



Official mourning. 

Cavalry boots. 

The same. 

Wadded. Mourning. 

The same. 

The same, but figured. 

Same as the preceding. 



62 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 8 84- 5. 



ARTICLE. 



Place or Peoduction- 



Naine in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



pair Man's Shoes 



>? » » 



5> » J5 



» )> )> 



Boots 



tf#« 






Chihli, Tientsin 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



5J » 

Chekiang, Ningpo., 

» » . •■ 

5} » •• 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



63 



Province and Town, 



Name in Chinese. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.Tts. 



6 - .T 

-a r=a jo 
o o Eh 



Width. 



REMARKS. 



Hit 3c?t 



an ±w 



m& m« 



0.76 
0.76 
0.76 
0.76 
0.76 
0.72 
0.72 
0.72 
0.84 
0.50 
0.50 
0.50 
0.68 
0.46 
0.46 
0.46 
0.46 
0.46 
0.46 
0.76 
0.27 
0.58 

0.53 
0.83 



0.56 
0.56 
0.56 
0.56 
0.56 

o-S3 
O.S3 
o-53 
0.62 

o.37 
o.37 
o.37 
0.50 

o.34 
o.34 
o.34 
o.34 
o.34 
o.34 
0.56 
0.20 
0.43 
0.39 
0.61 



Hob-nailed. For wet weather. 
Wooden soles. For wet weather 
Leather soles. For wet weather. 

Cavalry hoots. 



6 4 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



i pair Man's Shoes 



Boy's „ 



Man's „ 
2 pairs Man's Slippers , 



32 „ Woman's Shoes 

3 „ 

4 „ 
1 » 
1 » 
17 » 
« » 
3 » 
1 „ 



'Mrs 

■>■> 

m-km 



fi#m 



Chekiang, Ningpo 



» >) 



Chihli, Tientsin 



)> » 



j> j> 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Hupeh, Hanyang . , 
Chekiang, Ningpo 



Note. — The collection of shoes has been confined to those made of cloth, and as those made of native 
tints in silk employed in the making of shoes worn by all who can afford to do so would have 
floor of his house under his feet, instead of laying it on the ground ; and a wise precaution it 
perforated covers, or stools, on which to rest their feet, the majority of houses have no covering 
freezing point. The extreme stiffness of the .sole leaves room for much improvement ; and the 
when he may do so. Sizes range from a maximum of 1 ch'ih (or 14 inches, English) to a,\ 
heel on the upper. The designs are all recognised and bear well-known names, though it 
are the "cumulus cloud," the layers which ornament the toe; the "old-age character," the 
"butterfly pattern." 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



65 



Province and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 


KEMARKS. 






Name in Chinese. 


Amer. 
Gold $. 


Hk.Tts. 


Chang. 
Ch'ih. 

Ts'un. 








Witt tt» 


O.03 


0.02 






Made of straw and cotton rags. Used by- 
water-carriers and porters of the lowest 
class. 




» » 


0.02 


O.O I 






Same as the preceding. 






mm Jim 


O.76 


0.56 


... 




Mourning. 






» 11 


O.42 


O.31 






» 






ii ii 


O.48 


o-35 












um ±m 


O.49 


0.36 






Hob-nailed. For wet weather. 






a ii 


O.84 


0.62 




... 


For summer wear. 






ii ii 


0.37 

$ pair. 


0.27 

$ pair. 






All cloth. 






ii ii 


O.31 


O.23 


... 


... 


Embroidered. 






a ii 


O.3I 


O.23 




... 


Embroidered mourning. 






ii ii 


O.23 


O.I7 




... 


Plain mourning. 






)» a 


O.23 


O.I7 




... 


Plain. 






ii ii 


O.50 


0.37 






Hob-nailed. For wet weather. 






ii ii 


O.42 


O.3I 


... 


... 


The same as the preceding. 






« mm 


0.20 


O.I5 


... 




Embroidered. 






ii ii 


O.I2 


O.09 


... 


... 


Worn by poor working women. 






mt « 


O.23 


O.17 




... 


Embroidered. 






ii ii 


O.23 


0.17 


... 


... 


Mourning. 





cloth are seldom worn outside of mourning, it is consequently limited ; otherwise the various hues and 
rendered this exhibit a far more pleasing sight. It has been tritely remarked that a Chinese carries the 
is when one considers that, with the exception of the wealthy, who generally have charcoal pans with 
on the ground ; and this in parts of the Empire where the thermometer falls 7.0 degrees (Fahrenheit) below 
discomfort it occasions affords no better indication than the readiness with which a Chinese <*oes slipshod 
ts un (or 6| inches). The measurement is not taken on the sole, but from the tip of the toe to 
may appear that the fantastic figures owe their existence to individual caprice. The principal designs 
embroidered ornament which is the word for "longevity," and is in the seal style of character- and the 



66 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



2 pairs Woman's Sleeping Slippers 
1 piece Silk and Cotton Mixture 

* }J » 5> 

* >J » )> 
1 » » » 

1 JJ » » 

1 » » »> 

4 "Waist Bands 

6 „ 

8 „. 

12 pairs Man's Garters 

8 » jj ••••• 

4 » » 

3 Waist Bands.... 

Belt 

» ••• ••••••••••••• • •• 

1 piece Imitation Lambs' Skin 

1 << 11 ii ...... 






$mis& 



m 



HI 



SI 



Chekiang, Ningpo.. 
„ Hangchow 



Kwangtung, Kwang- 
chow. 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Shensi, Hanchung. 



Hote, The practice of dwarfing or compressing the feet does not date back further than A.D. 950. As 

absence of historical record, to decide which may be accepted as the most trustworthy. A desire 
of an artificial method to become fashionable, are among the accepted explanations; while 
at home, and point to the absence of afternoon teas as one of the common benefits arising 
agricultural people the compression does not often exceed a slight distortion of the toes. 
repeUent form. At the age of 5 or 6 the bandages are first used, and in two to four years 
the shrieks and tears of the willing victim. Condemned from an age when girls of other 
purifies their minds, the Chinese girl has to look enviously on the rompings of her brothers, and 
So intensely are small feet admired (the smallest measuring 4 inches), that they compensate 
elicit the reply that her feet are so many inches long. They are poetically termed "golden 
feet of his bride, under the belief that the action will prevent them aching in the future. Shoes 
shoes are generally covered with coarse white cloth ; those exhibited and marked as mourning 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



67 



Province and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 






Name in Chinese. 


Amer. 
Gold $. 


Hk.Tts. 


Chang. 
Ch'ih. 
Ts'un. 


d eS 


REMARKS. 






O.I I 

2.05 


O.08 
I.5I 


3 8o 


1 3 


Worn when sleeping, to prevent the foot 

from expanding. 
Purplish-blue. Plain. Woof of cotton. 




55 55 


3.01 


2.21 


440 


1 tf 


Purplish-blue. Figured. Woof of cotton. 




55 55 


1. 12 


O.82 


3 3 


I I 


.. 




1111 


5.00 


3-68 


1 7 4 


2 I 


Interwoven with gilt paper. Used in hat 
and cap trimmings. 




- 5) 55 


3-78 


2.78 


3 5 8 


1 6£ 


Same as the preceding. 




55 55 


3-78 


2.78 


3 5 


1 61 


>, 




&W±B 


I.OI 


0.74 






Silk and cotton mixture. Woof of cotton. 




55 55 


I.l8 


0.87 






The same. 




55 55 


1.36 


1. 00 






" 




55 55 


O.82 


0.60 










55 55 


0.68 


0.50 






» 




55 5) 


0.18 


0.13 






» 




5) 55 


1.50 


1. 10 




... 


The same. Worn outside of long coat. 




55 55 


0.63 


0.46 






Silk and cotton mixture. Worn by officials 
outside of long coat, to keep the folds in 
their places. 




5> 5) 


o.45 


o.33 






Same as the preceding, but narrower. 




Ekflfjftifi 


1.47 


1.08 


280 


1 2 


Wool woven over a cotton ground. 




55 )> 


1.47 


1.08 


r 8 


1 1 


The same. 



to its origin, so many theories have been propounded, all equally plausible, that it is impossible, in the 
to imitate the club-feet of an Empress, a recognition of small feet as a mark of gentility, and an adoption 
cynics assert that the Chinese are the only people who have discovered the means of keeping their wives 
from this national custom. All classes in China except the Tartars practise it, though among the 
In families where a strict observance of fashion is carried out, this foolish custom is seen in its most 
the compression is complete, and form set. That the operation is most painful is well testified by 
countries are enjoying that exercise that builds up and strengthens their constitutions and invigorates and 
totter from point to point, clutching at everything on the way, to relieve the burden on her aching feet, 
for the deficiency in ail other charms ; and an inquiry as to the beauty of a Chinese lady will often 
lilies," and in some parts of the Empire it is often one of the first duties of the bridegroom to nib the 
worn by people of means are usually of red silk and embroidery. In deep mourning, as with men, the 
are a modified form of mourning, and worn ordinarily. 



68 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Production- 



No. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



640 
641 
642 

643 
644 
645 
646 
647 
648 
649 
650 
651 
652 
653 
654 
655 
656 
657 
658 
659 
660 
661 
662 



2 pairs Woman's Socks . 

3 „ Man's Stockings. 
3 Card-case Bags 



2 Hats 

2 „ , 

4 » ■ 



2 „ .. 
12 Caps 



Velvet, Gold-ribbed 

„ Blue 

„ Mottled 

„ Black 

„ Grey 

Pack-saddle 



Trunk 

Cash Bacj , 



%m 



fc'F'l 



>V 



mm* 

mm 
w±mt 



■#.& 



Shensi, Hanchung 



Chekiang, Hangchow 



Chihli, Tientsin .. 

■n 11 '• 

Hupeh, Hanyang 

)5 )) 

» )> 

Chihli, Tientsin ., 

)> j> •• 

Hupeh, Hanyang 

J> 5> 

)5 )> 

)5 )J 

>J » 

„ Hsiangyang 
Shantung, Tengchow 



Hupeh, Siangyang., 
Chekiang, Ningpo... 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



6 9 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



REMARKS. 



mm m* 

» ?) 

mm urn 

j) » 

m an 

Bill 3OT 

» » 

« aw 

» » 

3) » 

5> » 



mm s#i 

m mm 



0.67 1 0.49 



2.28 
0.68 



0.49 

$ piece. 

0-3S 

$ piece. 

0.22 

<$ piece 

0.I9 

<$ piece. 

O.14 
$? piece 

0.22 
K? piece, 

0.22 
jf? piece, 

I4.66 
8.40 
5.62 

8.40 

S-i3 
1.40 
1.40 
1.80 
1.44 

°-35 
0.22 
0.22 
0.1 1 



1.6b 
0.50 



0.36 

$ piece. 

O.26 

■$ piece. 

O.16 

$ piece. 

O.14 

IP piece. 

O.IO 

iy? piece. 

O.16 

<$ piece. 

O.16 

<P piece. 

IO.78 
6.18 

4-13 
6.18 

3-77 
1.03 
1.03 

i-33 
1.06 
0.26 
0.16 
0.16 
0.08 



2 5 

1 5 

1 o 

1 5 

1 5 



1 1\ 
1 7\ 
1 7i 
1 8 



Felt. 



Compressed goats' hair and cotton. The 
Chinese card is a sheet of red paper vary- 
ing from 6 x 3 inches to 10 x 5 inches in 
size, in accordance with the rank of the 
owner. It is always carried by a servant. 

Felt. Fancy silk bindings. 

Felt. Plain. 

Felt. Fancy silk bindings. 

The same. 

Felt. Bound with black lasting. 

Felt. With ear lapels. 

Felt. 

Cotton back, silk facing. Used as dress 
trimmings. 

Same as the above. 

Same as the preceding, but not so commonly 
used. 

Same as Nos. 650 and 631. 

Facing inferior to the preceding, but for 
same use. 

Used in the mountainous districts of China 
for carrying bedding and other things in. 
The same. 



Made of stout canvas, and when empty may 
be rolled up. 

Thrown across the shoulder. 
Same as the preceding. 



70 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 



No. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place or Pkoduction- 



Name in English. 



663 

664 

665 

666 

667 

668 

669 

670 

671 

672 

673 

674 

675 

676 

677 

678 

679 

680 

681 

682 

683 

684 

685 

686 



Cash Bag. 



2 2 Powder Puffs 

4 Spectacle-eases 

2 pairs Cotton Stockings. 
2 Spectacle-cases 



mm 



Apron and Pocket ^^t^I 

Handkerchief ^rfl^ 

4 Purses >J>fo ?S 

6 Cask Pouches ftfifcSfi 

3 T! 5} ;> 

4 Tobacco Bags JtBPgg 

Pipe Bag .#*S&£ 

Head-dress $kWi 



m 



&* 



6 J\A 



50 pieces Cotton Rouge H^Ha 



10 „ . » 
Head-dress ... 

5 Balls 

1 pair Pillows , 
1 » » 

1 H »1 • 



mm 
mi 

>Msfe® 

3$ 



Hupeh, Hsiangyang 
Kiangsu, Shanghai 

Chekiang, Ningpo 
Hupeh, Hanyang 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 

it » 

Chekiang, Ningpo 



Hunan 

Chekiang, Hangchow 

„ Ningpo.. 
Kiangsu, Shanghai 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



71 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Ainer. 
Gold $. 



Hh.'. 



Length. 



o o E-i 



Width, 



-^ s 

§ & 



REMARKS. 



m mi 



« mm 



33 55 



33 5) 



» 53 



55 35 



35 53 



mm 

33 33 



33 53 



O.46 

O.5O 
0.25 
0.3I 
0.24 
O.I2 
O.I2 

ft piece. 

O.I2 
ft piece. 

0.22 



O.07 
O.I I 
O.I8 
O.I8 

0*18 
0.16 
0*08 

o.39 
0.30 
0.26 

O.IO 

0.76 

0.4s 

0.27 
0.31 



0.34 
0.37 

0.19 
0.23 
0.18 

0.09 
0.09 

$ piece. 

O.09 
$ piece. 

O.I6 
f piece. 

O.05 

O.08 
O.I3 
O.I3 
O.I3 
O.I2 
O.06 
O.29 
0.22 
O.I9 
O.07 
O.56 

0.33 
0.20 
0.23 



Of same make as the preceding, but stronger, 
and carried across the back of ponies, 
asses, or mules. 

Bound round the waist. 

Same as the preceding, but smaller. 

Same as the preceding. 

Worn by men. 

With cash bag combined. 

Hung at the waist by passing it under the 
belt 

Hung at the waist. 
Same as the preceding. 

For carrying the hubble-bubble. 

Worn by married women. Almost out of 
fashion. 

The same. 



Knitted. Used by women. 
Lacquered cloth. 



Worn by unmarried women. 

Said to contain pith, hair, and quicksilver ; 
the latter supposed to make them bounce. 



Smaller than the preceding. 
The orifice is for the ear. 



72 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 8 84- 5. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Production- 



No. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



687 
688 
689 
690 
691 
692 



1 pair Pillows .. 

1 „ Cushions , 



* » » 

Pillow 

Cushion 

Suit of Criminal condemned to death... 



663 
694 
695 
696 
697 
698 
699 



2 pairs Child's Shoes. 

5 » » » 

1 pair „ „ . 
1 „ 



mm 

IBA# 



*MH 



5) )) 



5 pieces Oiled Cloth. 

4 Boy's Caps 

7 Official Hats 



700 
701 
702 



12 Children's Caps and Head Dresses. 

2 Child's Caps 

Boy's Cap 



M 



>Jvj^;l 



>b®m& 



Name in English. 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



Hupeh, Hanyang. 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



73 



Province and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 
















REMARKS. 






Ainer. 




g 3 r* 5 


r=5 g 






Name in Chinese. 


Gold $. 


Hk.TU 


O S 


& 






&M ±® 


O.54 


O.40 






Used on the opium divan. 




?) » 


O.30 


0.22 






For chairs or divans. 




» 5) 


O.I2 


O.09 






Used by doctors for resting the patient's 
hand on while feeling the pulse. 




)J » 


O.27 


0.20 






In two sections. 




» >J 


O.23 


O.I7 






May be folded and used as a pillow. 




)> » 


I.36 


I. OO 






Of cardinal coloured cloth. The unfor- 
tunate wretch is clad in garments like 
these, and, with his arms and legse 
pinioned, is conveyed, in a wooden cag 
or a sedan chair with no roof, to the 
execution ground, where, in a kneeling 
posture and neck stretched forward by 
his cue, he is decapitated. 




» V 


O.26 

$? pair. 


O.I9 

$ pair. 










M ^11 


0.22 

^ pair. 
O.50 

0.34 


O.16 

$ pair. 

0-37 
O.25 




... 








3-59 


2.71 


500 


I I 


Used for covering sedan chairs. 






0.12 


O.09 












¥ piece. 


Apiece. 












O.S8 


0.43 






Of black cloth, with purple tassels, and used 






¥> piece. 


$ piece. 






in mourning. This style of hat is used 
on all ceremonial occasions by those who 
hold real or brevet official rank. It is for 
ordinary use made of deep purple satin, 
faced with the same material or velvet 
or skin, and has a bright red tassel. 
The buttons denote the rank: the lowest, 
which may be used by all graduates, 
passed or honorary, is of brass; the 
highest, of deep red, is worn by the 
first magnates of the Empire. This hat 




~ 










is worn by all officers, civil or military, 
and is invariably adorned, when not in 
mourning, with a peacock's feather, which 
fits into a jade socket attached at right 




)5 )J 


3-24 


2.38 






angles to the button. 




fti§ ±^ 


0.18 


0.13 






\ 




)) >5 


O.19 


O.14 


... 







74 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



No. 



Place of Production- 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. Name in English. 



703 
704 
705 

706 
707 
708 

709 
710 
711 
712 
713 
714 
715 
716 
717 
718 
719 
720 
721 
722 
723 
724 
725 



Girl's Cap 

6 Man's Caps 



Man's Cap. 



>b&m® 



8 pieces 

9 » 


Silk 






I piece 






* 33 




*■ n 




*■ 5) 




* 3) 




I 33 




* 5) 




1 » 




* S3 








1 33 




I 33 




* 33 





» £^ 

» H » 

33 ftP* 3) 

» fl » 

» T-EL » 

5) 3) 

£JH3ftr 



ag&injtfr 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 

33 » 

Hupeh, Hanyang . . 

Kiangsu, Soochow 
Chekiang, Ningpo 

3) 33 

Hupeh, Kingchow 
Szechwan, Pachow 

33 33 

Kiangsi, Hsinch'ang 

33 
Shangkao 

33 
33 

Ts'ungjen 



Ihwang 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



75 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.Tte. 



Length. 



o o Eh 



Width. 



REMARKS. 



m mm 

i) 5) 

Bltt »I 
B/iJ ELM 

55 J) 

» )) 



=£: 



£: 



O.IO 
I.OI 
0.20 

O.IO 

0.08 

O.I 2 

3-55 

$ .piece. 

3-55 

$ piece. 

3-9o 

3P piece. 
2.42 

I.06 

2.99 
I.59 
1. 17 
2.92 

2-34 
I.77 
3.06 
2.65 
2.24 
2.96 
2.27 
1.82 



O.07 
O.74 
O.15 

O.07 
O.06 
O.09 

2.6l 

§ piece. 

2.6l 

8> piece. 
2.87 

$ piece. 

I.78 
O.78 
2.20 
1. 17 
O.86 
2.15 
1.72 

1.30 
2.25 
1.95 
I.65 
2.l8 
I.67 

1-34 



104 
100 
100 
4 8 5 
4 6 5 
4 9 5 

4 8 5 
476 

5 2 9 
5 2 9 
5 2 9 
S 2 9 
5 2 9 
S 2 9 
5 2 9 
300 
300 



2 o 

9i 

9* 

7 

6 

6* 

7 

7 

2i 
3 

2* 

2* 

2* 

2^ 

I 

I 



In sombre colours, as used in mourning. 
Usually of black satin with red knobs. 

Same as the preceding. Of coarse white 
cloth. Used during the period of intense 
mourning or when following the remain 
of a parent. 



Same as the preceding. 

Made from foreign cotton material. 

Variegated. Manufactured solely for cover- 
ing bed quilts. 

Of different colours. For same use as the 
preceding. 

Plaided. For same use as the preceding. 
Fine ; unbleached. 
Coarse ; unbleached. 
Fine ; unbleached. 
Coarse; unbleached. 



Fine; bleached. 

m it 

Coarse ; bleached. 

Fine ; dark blue. 

Fine ; light blue. 

Fine ; darker shade than the preceding. 

Fine; red. Used only for women and children. 

Fine; bleached. 



76 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



piece Grasscloth . 



Name in Chinese. 






m&m 


CT 


JJ 


#&Ih 


5) 


)J 


■6* 


>) 
>> 


Kiangsi, 
ch'ang. 


,, m 


» 


» 


» *H 


)) 


» 


» ^B 


» 


» 


» ffil 


m 


» 


tcMHir 


» 


*6fflJ 


w 


» 






Place of Pboduction- 



Name in English. 



Kiangsi, Ihwang 



Ningtu 



Lean 



Wantsai... 



„ Chinch 'L... 
„ Shihch'eng 

„ Feni 

Hunan, Liuyang 



-The plants which furnish the fibre from which this cloth is woven have been identified as Urtica 
filaments boiled in lime water and exposed to the sun become more flexible and white, suitable 
Universal Exhibition, Vienna, 1873.") 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



77 



Province and Town, 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.Tts. 



O O h 



Width. 



REMARKS. 



&w ££ 



}# 



m mm 



1.09 
4-03 
3-90 
4.11 
3.02 
3.62 

5-43 
2.99 
2.62 
2.22 
7.82 
2.15 
1.88 
1.25 
4.58 
3-47 
2.03 
1.96 

i-37 
1.40 

1.74 
1.40 
3-25 



0.80 
2.96 
2.87 
3.02 
2.22 
2.66 

3-99 
2.20 

i-93 
1.63 

5-75 
1.58 

1.38 
0.92 

3-37 
2.55 
1.51 
1.44 
1.01 
1.03 
1.28 
1.03 
2-39 



300 
600 
600 
600 
600 
600 
920 
640 
640 
640 
9 5 o 
500 
500 

4 7 6 

5 o 1 

6 8 1 

7 4 9 
400 

7 4 9 
5 7 o 
760 
660 
4 9 1 



3 
2 
2 
2 

2 

3 

7 

7\ 

1\ 

7\ 

1 

7 
3\ 

1* 

6 

4 



Fine ; bleached. 

Fine ; light blue. 

Fine ; dark blue. 

Fine ; dark purple. 

Fine; black. Used principally for mourning. 

Fine ; green. Process of dyeing same as 
No. 163. 

Fine ; bleached. 



Coarse ; bleached. 
Fine ; unbleached. 
Fine ; bleached. 
Fine; unbleached. 
Coarse ; unbleached. 
Fine ; unbleached. 

Coarse ; unbleached. 

Fine ; red. Used only by women and 
children. 

Coarse ; unbleached. Used for mosquito 
curtains. 

Coarse ; unbleached. 

Coarse ; bleached. Used for mosquito cur- 
tains. 

Coarse ; unbleached. 
Fine ; unbleached. 



nivea, Sida tiliasfolia, Dolichos bulbosis, etc. The stalk of these plants is like that of hemp, and its 
for weaving into cloth. ("Port Catalogues of the Chinese Customs Collection at the Austro-Hungarian 



72 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



I piece Felt.. 

1 )j )) ••' 
Inner Jacket. 
Lonw Coat.... 



Vestment 



Waist Girdle. 
Shoes 



Hood 

Cap 

Hat 

4 Hats .... 

Vestment , 



» 

.. mm 



» MM 



Shensi, Hanchung 



Hupeh, Hanyang . . 



Kiangsu, Shanghai 
Hupeh, Hanyang 



Note. "The most popular religious sect in China is the Buddhists, or the followers of Fo, whose tenets 

of the Rationalists, to seek for a wise man said to have appeared there ; according to others, 
have been that this mission was excited by some indistinct tidings of the advent and death 
are more numerous in China than the Tausz, and they obtained influence more rapidly over the 
goes even further in permitting the priests to worship the gods of other pantheons, so that 
foreign spirits into their calendar they saw fit. They had a good entrance into China through 
of happiness hereafter, of which Confucius said nothing, the people naturally looked upon them 
austerities to overcome evil passions and fit its disciples for future happiness. A vow of celibacy 
calling upon his name. They shave the entire head as a token of purity ; they profess to eat no 
worshippers, and the cultivation of the grounds of the temple. Much of their support is 
of them are respectable, intelligent, and sober-minded persons, who seem to be sincerely 
"The Middle Kingdom," vol. ii.) 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



79 



Province a 


iND Town 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 




Name in 


Chinese. 


Ainer. 
Gold $. 


HTc.Tts. 


Chang. 
Ch'ih. 
Ts'un. 


6 & 


REMARKS. 


B*W 


vas rrT 


0.20 


O.I5 


042 


2 3 


For making shoe soles. 


» 


» 


0.20 


0.15 


042 


2 3 


The same. 


m 


3tK 


0.54 


O.40 


... 


... 


Buddhist priest's. 


» 


» 


1.69 


I.24 


... 


... 


>> »> ■ _ 


» 


» 


1.69 


I.24 


... 


... 


)> 11 


» 


5> 


4.20 


3-09 


... 


... 


i) 11 


» 


J) 


3.54 


2.60 


... 


... 


»j 11 


» 


» 


4.62 


3-40 


... 


... 


11 11 


» 


5> 


1.67 


1.23 


... 


... 


11 11 


5> 


» 


0.05 


0.04 


... 


... 


„ 


um 


-LflP 


0.60 


0.44 


... 


... 


i> 11 


» 


» 


0.50 


o.37 


... 


... 


11 11 


M 


11 


0.68 


0.50 


... 




n 11 


» 


» 


0.26 


0.19 


... 


... 


Buddhist priest's, ordinary wear. 


» 


» 


0.42 


0.31 


... 


... 


11 1) 1) 11 


» 


» 


2-45 


1.80 


... 


... 


Buddhist priest's, ceremonial wear. 


» 


j> 


5-47 


4.02 


... 


... 


Taoist priest's. 


» 


» 


4.20 


3.09 


... 


... 


„ 



were introduced into China about A.TJL 66, by means of an embassy sent to the West at the suggestion 
it arose from a remarkable expression of Confucius, 'The people of the West have sages.' It may 
of Christ, though there is no trace of such a rumour having reached the laud of Sinim. Buddhist priests 
people. Their demonolatry allows the incorporation of the deities and spirits of other religions, and 
they could adapt themselves to the popular superstitions of the country they went to, and ingraft all the 
Imperial favour, and as their rites presented nothing cruel or revolting, and their tenets held out promises 
with favour. The tenets of Buddhism require a renunciation of the world and the observance of 
is taken and the priests dwell together for mutual assistance in attaining perfection by worshipping Buddha and 
animal food, wear no skin or woollen garments, and get their living by begging, by the alms of 
derived from the sale of incense sticks, gilt paper, and candles and fees for services at funerals. Many 
desirous of making themselves better, if possible, by their religions observances." (Dr. Williams, 



8o 



NEW OELEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



6 Hats 

3 Smoothing Irons 

Smoothing Iron 

)> )) 

3 pairs Scissors 

4 Thimbles 

6 Chalk Bags and Lines 

Knife 

Foot Eule 

8 Banners 



«±*is 



mm 
mm 
am 



Hupeh, Hanyang . . 
Chekiang, Ningpo 
Hupeh, Hanyang .. 
Chekiang, Ningpo 



Hupeh, Hanyang , 



Note. — Taoism, or Rationalism, dates its origin from the founder Lao-tzu, or the "Old Child," the 
the womb, his mother bringing him forth from her left side, under a plum tree, from which he 
Great Supreme, and is styled "The Venerable Prince." He is represented as having travelled 
The summary of his doctrine, as gleaned from the only work he has left behind, called the Tao-te- 
impersonal First Principle, self-existent, self-developing, the mother of all things. The operation 
sought for in return through 'quietism' and 'non-action' to the mother principle. The 
from mental perturbation." Dr. Williams says: — "He teaches the emanation and return of 
miseries of successive births and their accompanying sorrows await him. Only the priests of 
cultivating the ground attached to the establishment, and thus perpetuate their body ; many 
They shave the' sides of the head, and coil the rest of the hair in a tuft upon the crown, 
immortality, and during the Tang dynasty the Emperor and highest officers were carried away 
and designing jugglers, who are quite as willing to use their magical powers to injure their 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



81 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hl-.Tts. 



o 5 s* 



REMARKS. 



to mm 

») 5J 

» 5> 
J> 5J 

J5 5) 

» )5 

M fltfil 



3-54 
2.56 
0.22 
0.14 
0.18 
0.05 
0.07 
0.04 
0.04 
12.13 



2.60 
1.88 
0.16 
0.10 
0.13 
0.04 
0.05 
0.03 
0.03 
8.91 



4.04 



2.97 



Taoist priest's, ceremonial. 
Brass ; filled with live charcoal. 
Iron. Same as preceding. 
For ironing seams. 



For marking. 

Used for cutting skin lining. 



Banners of the eight divisions of the Im- 
perial or Manchn corps — the army with 
which the present dynasty invaded China 
and wrested the sceptre from the feeble 
grasp of the Mings. The descendants of 
this army of Manchus, including also 
Chinese who joined the standards, are all 
enrolled under their respective banners, 
and an accurate register is kept of their 
number ; they receive a monthly stipend, 
and have to be in readiness to go on 
active service when called upon. Their 
strength at present in Peking alone ex- 
ceeds 100,000. The diagram in the centre 
of the flags is the yin-yang of Chinese 
cosmogony, or the male and female prin- 
ciples of nature, from which all creation 
was evolved. 

Arranged in proper sequence; the characters 
make the phrase "Great and Pure Na- 
tion." See No. 1. 



legend being that he had white hair and eyebrows at his birth, and had been borne for 80 years in 
took his surname of Li, or Plum (B.C. 504). He is believed by his votaries to be the incarnation of the 
to the "further extremities" of the earth and to have converted many people to his way of thinking. 
ching is given as follows by the late Mr. W. F. Mayers: — "Creation proceeding from a vast, intangible, 
of this creative principle fulfilled in the nature of men, the highest development of which again is to be 
highest good, accordingly, is to be enjoyed in a transcendental abstraction from worldly cares, or freedom 
all good beings into the bosom of Reason (Tao), and their eternal existence therein ; but if not good, the 
this sect are regarded as its members ; they live in temples and small communities with their families, 
lead a wandering life, and derive a precarious livelihood from the sale of charms and medical nostrums, 
thrusting a pin through it. They long endeavoured to find a beverage which would insure longevity or 
with the delusion. Since that time they have degenerated, and are now looked upon as ignorant cheats 
enemies as to help those who seek their aid," 



82 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place op Production — 



Name in English. 



778 9 Banners. 



779 



Hupeh, Hanyang 



» 5) 



CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 



83 



Pbovince and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 






Name in Chinese. 


Amer. 
Gold $. 


Ek.rn. 


I 1 ^ i 

O O £3 


4 i 

6 a 


REMARKS. 




» mm 


28.15 

24-93 


20.70 
18.33 




... 


Company flags. A brigade is divided into 
five battalions, each battalion consisting 
of five companies, which each number 100 
strong, and are respectively designated 
van, rear, left, right, and centre. 

Striped. Banners of officers, civil and mili- 
tary. The character in the centre is the 
surname of the official. 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION. 



CHINA SECTION. 



Part II. 
CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 



CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION 



No. 



ARTICLE. 



Plack of Production- 



Name in English. 



1,2 
3-6 

7-22 

23- 
26 

27 
28 

29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 

35 
36 



37 
38 
39 
40 



2 pairs Hanging Lanterns . 

4 5} )> }, 

1 6 pairs Written Scrolls... 



> 4 pairs Painted Scrolls . 
Chinese Imperial Ensign . 



Flag of Viceroy of the Two Kwang 
provinces. 

Flag of Hoppo or Superintendent of 

Customs, Canton. 
Flag of Chinese Rearguard 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



mm 






m 






Flag of the Sui-ching Regiment, Canton 

Flag of a Military or Naval Commander' pf* ||| fj^f^^lE 

Official Processional Flag iW *H^f£ 

Flag of a Canton Street Patrol J| >}\] |$ -j^Zp. ffi 



Artillery Flag 

Flag of Authority 



Flag of the Chinese Gun- vessel Chinto 

Congratulatory Flag 

Buddhist Temple Flag 

Flag of Official Junk 






Kwangtung, Canton 



AT THE NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.m. 



Length. 



8* riS s 
6 o S 



6 8 



REMARKS. 



mMMiSii 



5) )5 



» )) 



)> )) 



5J )> 



>> 5) 



)J 5) 



76.00 
38.00 
IS.OO 

II.OO 
2.72 
2.49 

2.27 
2.27 
2.27 
2.27 
2.27 
2.27 

2.27 
2.27 



2.27 
2.04 
2.04 
2.04 



56.00 
28.00 

11.00 

8.00 

2.00 
.83 



.68 
.68 
.68 
.68 



.68 



1.68 
r.50 
1.50 
1.50 



For lighting rooms. 



For ornamenting the walls of rooms. The 
characters on each pair of scrolls form a 
poetical couplet. 

For ornamenting the walls of rooms. 



Hoisted in front of official residence. 



The character on the flag is pronounced 
Wang, and is a Chinese surname. 

Borne in front of high officials. The charac- 
ters signify "Purity." 



The character on the flag signifies a 
" cannon." 

The character on the flag signifies "Man- 
date." Such a flag would he borne by a 
force sent to suppress a riot ; it conveys 
authority to use arms against a mob, and 
is somewhat equivalent to the "Riot 
Act " in the West. 



The characters on^the flag signify "Joy be 
with you." 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 8 84- 5. 



ARTICLE. 



No. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production- 



Nanie in English. 



41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 



Buddhist Temple Flag 

Flag used at Mid-autumn Festival . 
T'utoia Boat Flag 



Flag of Officials from 4th Rank down 

wards. 
Flag of Officials from 2nd to 4th Rank 



Flag of Officials of 1st Rank. 
Junk Guardian Flag , 



±mmm 



48 
49 
50 

51 
52 



Flag of a Generalissimo 

Flag of a General of Provincial Forces 

Junk Guardian Flag 

Domestic Guardian Flag 

Laudatory Flag 



MIR 



53 i Flag 



54 

55 
56 

57 

58 
59 



1m 



MftMUftt 



%m 



Black-wood Cabinet. 



Table 



ttttftfli 






Kwangtung, Canton 



CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 



89 



Province and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 






Name in 


Chinese. 


Amer. 
Gold $. 


Hk.Tts. 


Chang. 
Ch'ih. 
Ts'un. 




REMARKS. 




m-M 


mm 


2.27 


1.68 






The characters signify "Queen of Heaven," 
a deity of the Chinese. 




)7 


» 


2.27 


1.68 






The characters signify "Mid-autumn salu- 
tations." 




» 


» 


2.27 


1.68 






T'nJma is the name of a place near Canton. 




?> 


» 


2.27 


1.68 










» 


S) 


2.27 


1.68 


... 








» 


» 


2.27 


1.68 










>J 


» 


2.72 


2.00 






Device represents the " eight diagrams " of 
Chinese philosophy, with, in the centre, 
the diagram of the yang and yin, the 
primordial positive and negative essences 
from which all matter was evolved. The 
flag is hoisted by junks to ward off evil 
influences. 




» 


» 


2.72 


2.00 


... 


... 


Character on flag signifies ' ' Commander-in- 
chief." 




» 


» 


2.72 


2.00 




... 






)) 


)> 


I.82 


i-33 




... 


Device represents yang and yin {see No. 47). 
Flag is used by junks. 




>» 


J) 


3-64 


2.67 






Picture represents Tzii-ivei, the spirit which 
keeps off evil influences. 




!) 


)) 


2.72 


2.00 






Such a flag would be presented to a skilful 
workman. 




)) 


)> 


2.72 


2.00 






The picture represents an eclipse, which the 
Chinese say is brought about by toads or 
a dragon trying to devour the sun or 
moon. 




5) 


)) 


1.82 


i-33 






The stars on the flag represent the seven 
stars of the Great Bear, which constitute 
the "Plough." The proper relative 
positions are not preserved. 




» 


)) 


2.72 


2.00 




... 


The picture is that of a bat, the Chinese 
emblem of happiness. 




)) 


» 


3-64 


2.67 


... 




Device represents yang and yin and "eight 
diagrams " (see No. 47), surrounded by 
four bats. 




» 


?> 


5440 


40.00 




... 


Canton black-wood is red-wood stained. 
The red-wood is imported from Annam 
and Siam. 




5) 


)) 


27.20 


20.00 




... 


Inlaid with marble and mother-of-pearl. 




>» 


)) 


18.13 


13-33 


... 


... 


,. 



po 



NEW OELEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



No. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



60- 
63 

64- 
67 

68- 
75 

76- 

79 

80- 
84 

85 

86 

87 
88 

89 
90 

91- 
94 

95- 

103 

104- 
107 

108 
109 

110 
111 
112 

113 

114 
115 

116- 
119 

120 
121 

122 
123 



j-4 „ Drum-shaped Stools .. 



J- 4 Black-wood Stools 

} 

J- 8 „ Chairs 

J4 „ Tea-poys 

J- 5 pairs Porcelain Vases 

1 „ „ Umbrella Stands.... 

1 „ „ Drum-shaped Stools 

> 2 Glazed Earthen Ornaments 

> 2 Porcelain Punch Bowls 

>4 „ Card Plates 

> 9 pairs Porcelain Vases 

J- 4 sets Porcelain Toilet Boxes 

J- 2 White Porcelain Images 

Carved Ivory Curio 

1 set Ivory Draughtsmen 

1 set Carved Ivory Chessmen 

Lacquered Chess-board 

1-2 Silk Embroidered Fans 

J- 4 „ Fans, painted Figures 

J-2 j, Embroidered Fans, raised Figures 

} 2 „ „ „ (Trees) 



tt&PMtt 



Kwangtung- Canton 



mm 
mm 



mm 
mm. 



.150^ 



Kiangsi, Kingtechen 



Kiangsi, Kingtechen 



Kwangtung, Canton 



mmm 
mm 



CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 



91 



Province and Town 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Ainer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.TU. 



Length. 



J Ss -» 

5 ^ h 



Width. 



6 £ 



REMARKS. 



55 5) 

55 55 

ftViltt 



am Mtffltt 



25.38 

54.40 

105.20 

26.28 

86.12 
8.16 

u.79 
3.18 

9.08 
6.34 

4-95 
1.66 

1.08 
5-89 
7-44 
45-32 
9.97 
4.90 

0.92 

0.36 

0.92 



18.67 
40.00 
77-36 
19.32 

63-33 
6.00 
8.67 
2-33 
6.68 
4.66 

3-64 
1.22 

0.S0 
4-33 
5-47 
33-34 
7-33 
3.60 

0.67 

0.26 

0.66 



Inlaid with marble and mother-of-pearl. 



Painted in Canton. 



Manufactured at Shihwan, about 16 miles 
from Canton. 

Painted in Canton. 



Ornament. 



For screening the face. 



92 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



No. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



124 

125 
126 

127 

128 
129 

130 
131 

132 
133 

134 
135 

135« 



Folding Fan, Lacquered Handle 



}2 Silk Embroidered Screens, Black- 
wood Frames. 

8 Rattan Chair Cushions 

>2 Silk Table Hangings 

J-2 „ Embroidered Scrolls 

> 2 „ „ Chair Covers , 

1 1 pair Silk Embroidered Screens (in 
J Black-wood Frames). 

Set of Models to illustrate Dyeing 
Process : — 

a. Unsizing Tub and Wringer 

b. Dyeing Vats 

c. Rinsing Tub , 

d. Re-sizing Tub 

e. Beating Table 

/. Drying Frame 

g. Rolling Stand 

h. Calender 



136 
137 
138 
139 
140 
141 



Cotton, Raw 

„ with Seed 
Cloth 



mmmm 
mmmk 

ME 

mm 



mimm 



Kwangtung, Canton 



Swatow 



Hsintsao. 



Shihch'iao 



Tziitung .. 



CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 



93 



Province and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 






Name in Chinese. 


Amer. 
Gold $. 


Hh.Tts. 


Chang. 
Ch'ih. 
Ts'un. 

Ch'ih. 
Ts'un. 


REMARKS. 




mm mm 


1.45 


I.07 










» j) 


25-38 


18.66 




... 






» » 


3-62 


2.66 










» » 


26.29 


19-34 




... 






i) » 


21.76 


16.00 










» j> 


7.26 


5-33 




... 






» » 


10.88 


8.00 




... 






« fOfgM 


9.07 


6.67 










» )> 


... 


... 




.... 


For the complete removal of size, if any, 
from the cloth. 




>» » 


... 


... 




... 


Indigo the general dye. 




)5 » 


... 


... 




... 


For the removal from the cloth of impurities 
taken up in the dyeing vat. 




)) )) 


... 


... 




... 


The dyed cloth is steeped in size. 




» )> 


... 


... 






The size is worked into the fabric by appli- 
cation of the wooden beater. 




)) » 


... 


... 




... 


For drying the cloth after sizing and at 
other stages. 




)J J> 


... 


... 




... 


To prepare the cloth for the calender. 




» )J 


... 


... 




• •• 


The stone, waxed underneath, is worked by 
foot to and fro upon the roller until the 
cloth acquires the requisite smoothness 
and gloss. 




,t]f£ §?*£ 


1. 11 


0.89 




... 






?J )5 


0.79 


0.60 




... 






» iffl^ 


0.61 


0.45 


2 


I I 


Used for clothing. 




)) 5) 


0.67 


0.49 


2 


I I 


„ . „ 




1> » 


0-33 


0.24 


2 


O 9 


„ 




» i&m 


0.41 


0.30 


2 


I I 


„ 



94 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Pboduction- 



Name in English. 



Cotton Cloth 



„ Dyed 



5) )> 



)> )> 



W 



£W 



Kwangtung, Lishui 

„ Shat'ou , 

„ Chiangt'ou ., 

„ Tiehchiao .. 

„ Shihch'iao... 

„ Chiayingchou 

„ Shihch'iao... 

„ Tali 

„ Chiayingchou 

„ Tali 

„ Chiayingchou 

„ Shihlung ., 

„ Kuanyao ., 

„ Tsangt'ou 

„ Shat'ou 

„ Canton 

„ TaU 

„ Shat'ou 

„ Yenpu 

„ Kuanyao 

„ Tiehchiao ... 
„ Taliang 



CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 



95 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $ . 



iik.m. 



*S fi M 

O O Ei 



WIDTH. 



Q £ 



REMARKS. 



m% Mi< 



m 
Tff#§ 






MM 



" &8'l& 



W\ 



» JEMS 



SI 



0.31 
0.26 

0.33 
0.78 
0.50 
0.51 
0.50 
0.71 
0.45 
0.59 
0.56 
0.82 
0.64 
1.26 
1. 00 
0.45 
0.50 
0.31 
0.21 
0.76 
1.16 
2.00 
0.73 
073 



0.23 
0.19 

0.24 
0.57 
0.37 
0.37 
0.37 
0.52 

0.33 
0.43 
0.41 
0.60 
0.47 
0.93 
0.73 
0.33 
0.37 
0.23 
0.15 
0.56 
0.85 
1.47 

°-53 
O.S3 



200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
240 
240 



1 o 



M 

1 1 

8 

1 5 
1 1 
1 2 
1 o 

8 

1 2 
1 1 

9i 5 o 

1 Oj 

I I 
I I 
I o 
o 9 
o 7^ 

8 

1 1 
1 1 

1 4 
1 1 
1 1 



Used for clothing. 
Used for towelling. 
Used for towelling, etc. 
Used for hags, wrappers, etc. 
Used for clothing, etc. 



Used for temple hangings and for festive 
adornments. 

Used for clothing. 



Dyed before being woven. Used forpalam- 
pore covering (see No. 349). 



96 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 





































Cord 
















































Tape 







„ partly Dyed . 



55 



Kwangtung, Taliang 
„ Shihch'iao 
„ Canton.. 



fMrfj^ 






&*B*>&: 



m 



l^/TOW 



Shat'ou 

55 ' 

Tztini . . , 
Shat'ou 



Shawan. 



Canton. 

5) 

Lunchiao 
Taliang 



CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 



97 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



llk.Tts. 



Length. 



5 S H 






mm 



m 



jt& 



0.50 
0.44 
0.18 

0.18 
0.09 
0.09 
0.36 
0.36 
0.64 
0.76 
0.86 
0.86 
1.27 
0.86 
0.37 
0.39 
1. 12 
0.62 
0.44 
0.14 
0.29 
0.27 
0.95 
0.21 



0.37 
0.32 
0.13 

0.13 
0.07 
0.07 
0.27 
0.27 
0.47 
0.56 
0.63 
0.63 

o-93 
0.63 
0.27 
0.29 
0.82 
0.45 
0.32 

O.IO 

0.21 
0.20 
0.70 

0.15 



200 
200 

028 

028 
030 
024 
021 
021 
020 



Width. 



I 2 5 

1 5 

2 8 

2 8 

3 o 

2 4 

7 T % 
o 7f 5 o 
7t 5 o 



REMARKS. 



Used for lining palampores, also for towel- 
ling (see No. 349). 

Used for clothing. 

The cloth is foreign but the articles are 
stamped in Canton. Used as luggage 
wrappers. 



Samples consist of 10 towels each; each 
towel is the size given. 



Used for sewing shoes and for packing. 
Used generally. 



Used for waist bands, etc. 



Used for cording luggage, etc. 



Used for binding garments, etc. 



Dyeing done before tape is woven. 



9 8 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



No. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



190 
191 
192 
193 
194 
195 
196 
197 
198 
199 

200 
201 
202 
203 
204 
205 
206 
207 
208 
209 
210 
211 
212 



Cotton Tape, partly Dyed 
Dyed 



Fancy Trimmings. 
Artificial Flowers. 



Cotton Clothing :- 
Jacket 



Waistcoat 

Lined Jacket 



Wadded Waistcoat , 



fiffiiM 



torn 

M7£ 



jkmz 






Kwangtung, Taliang 
„ Lunchiao 



m> 



n& 



Taliang 

Huahsien 
Canton 



CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 



99 



Province and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 






Name in Chinese. 


Amer. 
Gold $. 


Hk.TU. 


Chang. 
Ch'ih. 

Ts'un. 


6 S 


REMARKS. 




M'M KE 


O.04 


O.03 






Dyeing done before tape is woven. 




u M* 


O.64 


O.47 






Woven first, dyed afterwards. 




» >» 


0-37 


0.27 






» >i j> 




» » 


O.44 


o-33 






.. 




» » 


O.44 


o.33 






>> >> >> 




» %M 


O.41 


0.30 






Dyed first, woven afterwards. 




» » 


0.34 


0.25 






.. 




» 2E& 


O.lS 


0.13 






„ 




* ftJHtf 


O.23 


0.17 






„ 




>» » 


1.97 


MS 






Sample consists of 14 boxes. 




j> >» 


I. OO 


o.73 






Worn by women. 




» » 


O.64 


0.47 






„ 




» 5> 


1. 12 


0.82 






,. 




H }> 


0.6l 


0.45 






„ 




» » 


O.9I 


0.67 






,. 




» » 


O.gi 


0.67 






„ 




)> » 


0.95 


0.70 






„ 




)» W 


1.40 


1.03 






» 




» » 


1.45 


1.07 






„ 




!> » 


0.68 


0.51 






" 




JJ !J 


1.45 


1.07 






" 




» )> 


1.77 


1.30 






„ 




>5 » 


i.*3 


0.83 






Worn by women in cold weather. 



100 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Place of Production- 



Name in Enalish. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



Cotton Clothing, continued: 
Wadded Jacket 



Trousers . 
Leggings. 
Jacket . . . 



Coat ... 
Jacket , 



Coat ... 
Jacket , 



Lined Jacket , 



Waistcoat , 

Lined Jacket . 



Wadded Jacket .... 
Waistcoat. 



Jacket. 



n -km 

» -&MW 
» WMZ 

j) » 

n !%Mfe 

» M 

11 » 



Kwangtung, Canton 



CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 



IOI 



Province and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 






Name in Chinese. 


Amer. 

Gold $. 


Hk.Tts. 


Chang. 
Ch'ih. 
Ts'un. 


£3 


REMARKS. 




m mmm 


I.60 


1. 18 






Worn by women in cold weather. 




)) j) 


2.09 


i-53 






„ 




» » 


O.77 


o.57 






Worn by women. 




» » 


O.77 


0.57 






„ 




» » 


O.75 


0.55 






Worn by men. 




» » 


0.75 


o.55 






„ 




» 5) 


MS 


0.83 




... 


„ 




» » 


0.73 


o.53 






„ 




» )> 


O.76 


0.56 






„ 




» » 


0.85 


0.63 






„ 




» >» 


0.54 


0.40 






„ 




)} )5 


O.61 


0.45 






,. 




» M 


I.I8 


0.87 






„ 




» » 


O.9I 


0.67 






„ 




» » 


O.42 


0.31 






„ 




5J » 


1.36 


1. 00 






J) )) 




» » 


1.27 


o.93 






„ 




J> » 


I.67 


1.27 






„ „ 




» )) 


1. 00 


0.73 






„ 




» 5J 


0.77 


0.57 






„ 




» » 


I.36 


1. 00 






„ 




» » 


O.86 


0.63 






Worn by men. 




)) )) 


1.38 


I.OI 






" 



102 



NEW OKLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



No. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production- 



Name in English. 



236 
237 
238 
239 
240 
241 
242 
243 
244 
245 
246 
247 
248 
249 
250 

251 

252- 
255 

256- 
259 

260 

261 
262 

263 
264 

265- 
268 



Cotton Clothing, continued: 

Wadded Coat 

Trousers 



Lined Leggings. 



3 Wadded Collars 

Collar 

Cap 



Knitted Cap. 



„ Skull Cap 

„ Head-band.... 
> 4 pairs Stockings 

J- 4 pairs Knitted Socks. 

1 pair Leggings , 

>- 2 pairs Mittens , 

J- 2 pairs Shoes 

t 4 » » 






5) 5) 

» m m 

,, MM 

» 5) 



» ^m 



Kwangtung, Canton 



CATALOGUE OP THE CANTON COLLECTION. 



103 



Province and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 






Name in 


Chinese. 


Amer. 
Gold $. 


Hh Its. 


Chang. 
Ch'ih. 
Ts'wn. 


O Eh 


REMARKS. 




^m j 


mm 


I.80 


i-33 






Worn by men. 




5> 


5) 


O.50 


o.37 






„ 




» 


}> 


O.34 I O.25 






„ 




)) 


» 


0-35 


0.26 






., 




)J 


» 


O.54 


0.40 






„ 




» 


5> 


O.91 


0.67 






» 




» 


)> 


O.08 


0.06 






„ 




)) 


)> 


O.04 


0.03 






Worn by men. Stiffened with pasteboard. 




)) 


)J 


O.14 


O.IO 






Worn by men in deep mourning, of which 
this cap represents one grade. 




JJ 


» 


O.I4 


O.IO 






" 




» 


)) 


O.I4 


O.IO 






„ 




)> 


5> 


O.I8 


0.13 






Worn in cold weather by watchmen, etc. 




» 


))' 


O.18 


0.13 






„ 




J) 


» 


O.08 


0.06 






„ 




» 


5) 


O.04 


0.03 






Worn by young children. 




)> 


5) 


O.O4 


0.03 






Worn by old persons. 




>J 


» 


I.I4 


0.84 






Worn by men. 




)» 


)) 


O.23 


0.17 






Worn generally. 




>J 


)) 


O.45 


o-33 






Worn by old men. 




)) 


)> 


0.22 


0.16 






Worn generally. 




)) 


)) 


I.29 


0.95 






Worn by men during mourning. 




)) 


>> 


2.21 


1.62 






Worn by men. 



104 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



No. 



AETICLE. 



Place of Production- 



Narae in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



269 

270 
271 

272 
273 

274 

275 

276 

277 

278 

279 

280 

281 

282 

283 

284 

285 

286 

287 

288 

289 

290 

291 

292 

293 



Cotton Clothing, continued: — 

1 pair Clogs 

J- 2 pairs Shoes 

> 2 „ Boots 



Cotton and Silk Mixture 






Kwangtung, Canton 



Hsich'iao 



CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 



105 



Province 


and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 


REMAKES. 






Name in Chinese. 


Amer. 
Gold $. 


Hk.Tts. 


60S 


6 £ 






m-M 


mm 


O.31 


O.23 






Worn in wet weather. 






» 


55 


I.44 


I.06 


... 




Worn by women. 






» 


)) 


2.30 


I.69 




... 


Worn by officials during mora 


■ning. 




j? 


m 


1.86 


i-37 


2 


1 6 


Used for clothing. 






5) 


» 


2.54 


1.87 


2 


1 3 


„ 






55 


5) 


2.27 


1.67 


2 


1 3 


., 






55 


55 


2.54 


1.87 


2 


1 3 


„ 






55 


55 


1.86 


i-37 


2 


1 6 


„ 






J) 


55 


2.54 


1.87 


2 


1 3 


„ 






5) 


5) 


2.27 


1.67 


2 


1 3 


„ 






)) 


55 


2.27 


1.67 


2 


1 3 


„ 






55 


55 


2.27 


1.67 


2 


1 3 


„ 






55 


55 


2.18 


1.60 


2 


1 3 


„ 






» 


55 


2.18 


1.60 


2 


1 3 


„ 






55 


55 


2.18 


1.60 


2 


1 3 


„ 






55 


55 


2.54 


1.86 


2 


1 3 


„ 






55 


>J 


2.27 


1.67 


2 


1 3 


» 






)J 


J) 


2.27 


1.67 


2 


1 3 


,. 






55 


J) 


2.18 


1.60 


2 


1 3 


,, 






J) 


55 


1.97 


1.45 


2 


1 3 


» 






)J 


55 


2.27 


1.67 


2 


1 3 


» 






55 


55 


1.97 


1.45 


2 


1 3 


» 






55 


55 


2.18 


1.60 


2 


1 3 


„ 





io6 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



AKTICLE. 



No. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



294 
295 
296 
297 
298 
299 
300 
301 

302 
303 
304 
305 
306 
307 
308 
309 
310 
311 
312 
313 
314 
315 
316 
317 



Cotton and Silk Mixture 



Saronp; 



10 „ 

4 „ 

5 „ 
7 „ 
5 » 
2 » 
1 » 
1 » 
1 » 
1 „ 



«1 



Velvet . 








nd Silk Rraid 















































^mmm 



m&nm 



t^Wi 1 



Kwangtung, Hsich'iao 



CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 



107 



Province 


and Town. 


Value. 


Length. 


Width. 




! 

Name in Chinese. 


Amer. 
Gold $. 


HTc.Tts. 


a 
6 





& 


6 £ 


REMARKS. 


Jt£ M 


2.l8 


I.60 


2 








1 3 


Used for clothing. 


>) 


)) 


2.27 


I.67 


2 








1 3 


,, 


" 4 


Knu 


2.04 


I.50 


I 


4 





1 5 


„ 


?) 


>> 


2.04 


I-SO 


I 


4 





1 5 


„ 


)> 


>) 


4-53 


3-33 


2 








2 


„ 


>> 


>> 


4-53 


3-33 


2 








2 


„ 


>> 


» 


9.07 


6.67 


2 








2 


Manufactured for export to Straits and India; 
used for covering furniture. 


» 


)> 


1.63 


1.20 


O 


S 


5 


3 


The sarong is the only article of dress worn 
in many parts of Malaya ; it is worn over 
the shoulder and round, the middle. 


» 


55 


0.91 


0.67 


I 


1 





1 6 


„ 


5J 


)j 


0.82 


0.60 


O 


7 





1 5 


,, 


>y 


wii 


1.96 


1.44 


2 








1 4 


Used for clothing. 


» 


» 


9-97 


7-33 


2 








1 4 


,, 


» 


>) 


9-97 


7-33 


2 








1 4 


„ 


" J 


ftUHift 


2.27 


1.67 


14 








1 


Each roll 14 ch'ih. Used for trimming gen- 
erally. 


» 


J> 


2.27 


1.67 


14 








o T % 


.. 


» 


5) 


1.S1 


1-33 


17 


6 





i/o 


Each roll 44 chHlu Used, for trimming gen- 
erally. 


SJ 


it 


3-4o 


2.50 


22 








ofjj 


if is »> it 


» 


» 


2.22 


1.63 


30 


8 





o T % 


»> )> if »i 


» 


)> 


o.37 


0.27 


22 








O Oj% 


.. 


5> 


J> 


0.23 


0.16 


8 


8 





O Oft 


» 


» 


)) 


o.37 


0.27 


4 


4 





O O& 


Used for trimming generally. 


)) 


» 


0. 10 


0.07 


4 


4 





o& 


„ 


It 


)J 


0.54 


0.40 


4 


4 





0/0 


" 


>) 


)» 


0.1 1 


0.08 


4 


4 





O O^g 


„ 



io8 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



No. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Name in English. 



318 
319 
320 
321 
322 
323 
324 
325 

326 
327 
328 
329 
330 
331 
332 
333 
334 
335 
336 
337 
338 

339 
340 



1 roll Cotton and Silk Braid . 



3 Cotton and Silk Foot Bandages 

2 » 5J » 5) 

3 „ » Belts 

3 >j » )» 



2 » 

Sarong 



ttffilff 



a; 



6 rolls Cotton and Silk Braid interwoven 
with Imitation Gold Thread. 



Cotton, Raw. 



m 



$$ 



%umn&m 



ffi£ 



Kwangtung, Canton 



India, Bombay 
„ Bengal .. 



CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 



109 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.Tts. 



O o E-< 



O E-t 



REMARKS. 



mm 

mm 



mm 



EPJ&B Pil* 



0.33 


0.24 


0.16 


O.I I 


0.42 


0.31 


0.30 


0.22 


0.76 


0.56 


0.4s 


0.33 


0.34 


0.25 


1.54 


i-i3 


2.49 


1.83 


2.72 


2.00 


1.81 


1-33 


2.27 


1.67 


0.59 


o.43 


2.62 


i-93 


7.25 


5-33 


4.08 


3.00 


2.04 


1.50 


2.04 


1.50 


1. 18 


0.87 


2.04 


1.50 


0.50 


0.36 


0.65 


0.48 


0.64 


0.47 



440 
440 

025 

028 

050 
050 
040 
o 4 s 

082 
080 
o 7 5 
° 5 5 

4 5 
060 
060 
077 

1 1 o 

I I o 
I I o 
O I I 

14 4 o 



O Offr 

o o& 

O r T 2 

o o/o- 

o o T 6 o 

o^ 

1 9 

1 4 

1 3 

1 3 

3 2 

1 9 

2 8 
2 8 

1 4 

1 6 

1 6 

1 6 

1 6 

O Ofl 



Used for trimming generally. 



Used for binding the feet of Chinese girls. 



Cotton and silk mixture interwoven with 
imitation gold thread. For use, see 
No. 301. 



Used for trimming generally. 



no 



NEW OKLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



No. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production - 



Name in English. 



341 
342 

343 
344 
345 

346 
347 
348 

349 
350 
351 

352 
353 
354 
355 
356 
357 
358 
359 
360 
361 
362 



Cotton Yarn, 1st Quality 
2nd „ 



1st 
2nd 



Grs 



Thread 

Net Bags 

Papoose Bag 



Palampore or Wadded Quilt. 

Bed Quilt 

sscloth, Unbleached 



Bleached 



m 



& 



mm 
is** 

mm®£ 



;6 



India, Bombay 
„ Bengal .. 



Great Britain. 



Kwangtung, Hsintsao 
„ Canton.... 
„ Hsich'iao.. 
„ Canton.... 



„ Swatow.... 

„ Shihch'iao. 

„ Kuching .. 

„ Chiangts'un 

„ Kuchen 

» » 

„ Swatow. 

„ Kiungchow 

„ KuchSn 

„ Shat'ang ... 

„ Swatow 



CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 



Ill 



Province and Town, 



Name in Chinese. 



Value. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Hk.Tts. 



Length. 






REMARKS. 



wmm mm 



m w* 



JSt 



,, imn 



ifrfit 



p3t 
tt*f 



1.87 
1.82 

2.17 
2.07 
0.91 
1.20 
1.81 
0.18 

2.22 
0.62 
2.27 



am 



}> a 



i-39 

i-34 

1.59 
1.52 
0.67 
0.88 

1-33 
0.13 

1.63 

0.45 
1.67 



17 5 o 10 



1.09 


0.80 


780 


0.72 


o-53 


520 


3-63 


2.67 


10 


544 


4.00 


970 


4.80 


3-53 


9 3o 


2.72 


2.00 


10 6 


6.16 


4-53 


9 7o 


n-33 


8-33 


10 2 


2.99 


2.20 


980 


1.63 


1.20 


240 


2.27 


1.67 


680 



1 5 

7 

1 °nr 
1 1 

1 u io 

I I-4r 

1 1 

1 1 

1 1 

1 1 



[ ro- 



Used for carrying clothes, etc. 

Used by women of the poorer class in 
southern China for carrying infants on 
the back. 

Used as a bed cover. 

Also used by travellers for wrapping up 
their bedding. 

Used principally for mosquito netting by 
the poorer class ; also in making strainers 
for beancurd ; also, to a limited extent, 
for silkworms to spin their cocoons on. 

Used for mosquito curtains. 
Used for mourning apparel. 
Used for summer clothing. 



Used principally for mosquito curtains, also 
for summer clothing. 



112 



NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 



ARTICLE. 



Name in English. 



Name in Chinese. 



Place of Production — 



Name in English. 



363 
364 
365 
366 
367 
368 
369 
370 
371 
372 
373 
374 
375 
376 
377 
378 
379 
380 
381 
382 
383 
384 
385 



Grasscloth, Bleached 



Dyed. 



m&mft 



11 5) 



11 11 



%3M 



2 pairs Grasscloth Handkerchiefs, Silk $$|ll Jl'ilj-^'riJ 
Embroidered. 



2 pairs Grasscloth Handkerchiefs, ^|||Jj[^j^lfj 
Hemp Embroidered. 



Kwangtung, Kuchen 
„ Shat'ang 



Swatow... 
Kuchen .. 

» 
Shat'ang 

Ch'aolien 

» 
Kuchen... 
Swatow... 
Shat'ang 

» 
Ch'aolien 
Shat'ang 
Canton... 



CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 



113 



Province and Town. 



Name in Chinese. 



Amer. 
Gold $. 



Ilk. TU 



Length. 



o o fci 



5 E-< 



REMARKS. 



mam 



» !J 






}) )> 



J) » 






» w 



» m\ 



m 



6.35 
8.16 
12.69 

14-55 

22.21 

2.27 

5-71 

8.16 

8.61 

10.88 

u-33 
2.99 

3-17 

14.05 
7.25 
7.25 
4.08 
3-09 
8.61 

3-17 
2.27 
1.80 
2.72 



4.67 
6.00 

9-33 
10.70 

16.33 
1.67 
4.20 
6.00 

6.33 
8.00 

8-33 
2.20 

2-33 
10.33 
5-33 
5-33 
3.00 
2.27 
6-33 
2-33 
1.67 

i-33 
2.00 



980 
10 1 o 
10 4 o 
10 2 o 

IO I o 

890 

IOOO 
IOOO 
10 3 o 
10 1 o 
10 3 o 

4 7o 
460 

10 o o 
760 
8 1 o 
7 3 

5 5 o 
10 o o 

o 1 5 

1 5 
014 

1 o s 



1 2 

1 2 

1 2 

1 2 

1 2 

1 5 

I Ot"7V 

1 r 
1 ift 
1 iA 

1 °to 
1 1 
1 1 

1 °is 

I O-S- 
I O- 8 - 

1 Ito 

1 I A 

1 4 

1 4 

1 3t% 

1 4 



Used for summer clothing. 



Used for summer clothing. 



Used for summer clothing for children. 
Used for summer clothing. 



Made for export to foreign countries ; not 
used by the Chinese. 



APPENDIX. 



Memorandum on the Importation of Cotton Yarn into 
the Province of Kwangtung. 

Among the forms in which cotton is imported into China, that of 
yarn demands some attention. It is imported for the purpose of being 
woven into cloth by Chinese looms, and the first query that suggests 
itself would seem to be, why should foreign yarn be imported instead 
of cloth, when the latter can be had for so little, and when, with all 
the abundance and cheapness of labour in China, weaving by hand, 
the only mode as yet practised to any appreciable extent in the 
country, must be a more expensive process than weaving by machinery? 
To answer this a comparison must be drawn between the native cloth, 
which the Chinese weave from their own material, and the cloth which 
they so largely import from abroad. The former excels in point of 
durability, while the latter possesses the advantage of cheapness and 
finish; in other words, the one is expensive and good, and the other 
cheap and inferior, while better looking. Bearing this difference in 
mind it becomes easy enough to understand that the Chinese should 
wish to have a fabric which partakes of the good qualities of their own 
and the foreign cloth combined. As a matter of fact, neither foreign 
nor native cotton yarn is woven by itself to any great extent in this 
province, the former being used as warp and the latter as weft, the 
outcome being a fabric which is more durable than foreign-made cloth 
and of better texture than that made entirely from. native material, 
though it may not possess the very fine appearance of the one nor yet 
the great durability of the other, while as regards cost it holds a position 
between the two. A further advantage — and the weight given to this 
consideration is characteristic of Chinese economy — is that after being- 
worn out in the shape of clothes it can still be utilised by being cut 
up to make the layers of which the thick soles of Chinese cheap shoes 



Il6 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 

are partly constituted, a use to which the flimsy foreign stuff that 
makes up the greater portion of the cotton goods imported into China 
is not capable of being put. As regards the wearing properties of the 
half-native half-foreign cloth, it is said that it will wear twice as long 
as the pure foreign material ; the difference between the two is, in fact, 
quite similar to that which used to cause discussion in days gone by 
when the primitive spinning-wheel was giving way before modern 
machinery. But in all countries what finds favour with the masses is 
that which looks well and is cheap, though it may not prove half as good 
in the end as something else which presents a plain appearance and costs 
more to begin with. This is the reason why cheap cotton goods, both 
yarn and cloth, enjoy such a good market in China; for it must be 
remembered that cotton clothing is chiefly worn by the poorer classes 
of Chinese, the rich generally wearing silk or grasscloth, at least in so far 
as outer garments are concerned. A suit of purely native cotton costs 
more than very many of the poorer Chinese can well afford to pay at 
one time, while the two, or it may be three, suits of foreign stuff which it 
takes to last as long as the other are a more convenient investment, as 
only requiring the payment of small sums, though at frequent intervals. 
It is here that the foreign and native mixture steps in and offers itself 
as an alternative, and those who are not very poor generally adopt the 
middle course. 

On reference to the Trade Returns from the ports of Swatow, Can- 
ton, Kiungchow, and Pakhoi, it will be found that over 153,000 piculs of 
cotton yarn and thread were imported in foreign vessels into the province 
of Kwangtung during the year 1883. This was, however, almost entirely 
yarn, as thread is imported only in very small quantities. It is said 
that one picul of yarn will make when woven about 75 suits of unlined 
summer clothes; 153,000 multiplied by 75 gives 11,475,000, which 
may therefore be taken as the number of people which might have 
been provided with a suit of clothes each from last year's importation 
of yarn. As has already been stated, however, neither foreign nor 
native yarn is, as a rule, woven by itself; so the above number may be 
doubled, and such being done, we find that last year's importation 
represents about 23,000,000 suits of clothes. A liberal allowance to a 
Chinese would be three suits of clothes a year, so if we divide by this 
number we find that the quantity of cotton yarn imported last year 
into Kwangtung would, with the native mixtm'e, have clothed about 



CHINESE EXHIBIT. — APPENDIX. 117 

7,000,000 of the inhabitants of the province. The population of 
Kwangtung has been variously given at from 15,000,000 to 20,000,000. 
Thus one-half or one-third of the people of this province would have 
been clothed by cloth made half from foreign yarn, and as there would 
have been enough to clothe a great part of the remainder in the cotton 
piece goods imported, it becomes manifest that foreign cotton goods 
find a very fair share of patronage in South China. It must, however, 
be understood that these statements are advanced for the purpose of 
exhibiting in a readily understood form the capabilities of the cotton 
goods importation, and not as representing what actually occurred. In 
the first place, a good deal of the material imported would be taken to 
other provinces inland for sale ; and, in the second place, what would 
be retained in the province would be used to some extent for other 
purposes than clothing. Hence the figures must be accepted with some 
reservation, but at the same time they may be regarded as a fail- 
approach to facts, and principally for this reason. The importation 
figures are taken from the Customs Returns of Trade. These, however, 
only deal with the trade in foreign vessels, and take no notice, as a 
rule, of the trade in native junks, which, with rare exceptions, report 
to the native department of the Customs. In Kwangtung the quantity 
of foreign goods imported by these junks is very considerable, but as 
the native department does not compile statistics of trade, it is not 
possible to say how much it may amount to. Again, it must be borne 
in mind that in Kwangtung the weather is hot for eight months of the 
year, and that the ordinary suit of clothes worn among the lower classes 
consists simply of a jacket and trousers. In the north of China, where 
the cold season lasts nearly eight months, more clothes have to be worn, 
and these must be lined as well as wadded, to keep out the cold, thus 
requiring much more cloth. Consequently, the foregoing calculations 
must be regarded as only of local significance. When the population 
of all China, with its varying requirements as to clothing, is considered 
in conjunction with the total importation of cotton goods into the 
country, the demand for these will not seem so proportionately great. 

The cotton yarn imported from abroad into Kwangtung comes 
partly from Great Britain and partly from India. The British article 
is the better of the two, but that from India is cheaper, though inferior 
in finish, and is consequently better suited to the requirements of an 
economical people such as the Chinese. 



Il8 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 

The following figures show the quantity of cotton yarn and thread 
imported into the province of Kwangfcung through its Treaty Ports in 
foreign vessels each year from 1874 to 1883, both inclusive : — 



1874. 


Picicls 48,110 


1879. 


Piculs 97,072 


1875 • 


>) 


68,2 22 


1880 . 


• » 93,95<5 


1876 . 


• )) 


81,684 


1881 . 


„ 116,698 


1877 . 


>, 


76,582 


1882 . 


• „ 132,256 


1878 . 


)> 


74,9 J 4 


1883. 


» !53>535 



During the first two years of the series the only ports open to 
foreign trade in Kwangtung were Canton and Swatow. In 1876 Kiung- 
chow was added, and in 1877 Pakhoi. These latter import considerably. 
On looking at the above figures it is seen that the importation of cotton 
yarn into the province has increased greatly from what it was 10 years 
ago, and it would seem that the increase has been somewhat detri- 
mental to the market for piece goods. 

The following figures are introduced as a kind of contrast to those 
just given; they show that since 1874 cotton piece goods have not 
gained very much ground in the province. They give the quantities 
of cotton piece goods of all kinds imported at the Treaty Ports of 
Kwangtung in foreign vessels from 1874 to 1883, both inclusive : — 



1874 


Pieces 


649,437 


1879 


Pieces 


726,769 


1875 . 


>> 


624,128 


l880 . 


,, 


813,008 


1876 , 


• )> 


690,744 


l88l 


• ,) 


818,254 


1877 . 


)5 


680,449 


l882 . 


,, 


790,251 


1878 


• )) 


583,438 


1883 , 


• ,, 


775>4oo 



Taking 35 yards as the average length of a piece of cotton cloth, 
"and 7 yards as equal to one suit of clothes, it will appear that the 
775,400 pieces of cotton cloth imported into Kwangtung in 1883 would 
have represented, roughly speaking, about 4,000,000 suits of clothes, 
a much less quantity than might have been made from the yarn 
imported. 

It would scarcely be right to assign so much importance to the 
increase in yarn as to assert that it has been wholly responsible for the 
almost stationary condition of the piece goods importation. Still, in 
view of the figures given above, it is safe to consider that it has been 
responsible to a certain extent, though it is quite possible that other 
causes have contributed their share also. 



CHINESE EXHIBIT. — APPENDIX. 119 

Whether the increase in the importation of yam will continue or 
not, depends very much on circumstances. If the Chinese take to 
foreign machinery, they ought to be able to manufacture good enough 
yarn from the cotton they grow themselves, and yarn, too, that ought 
to be cheaper than that Avhich has to bear all the expense of a long- 
voyage. The British article would, however, still possess an advantage 
that cannot be taken away from it. It is spun from a raw material 
which is longer in the staple than that produced in China, and being 
consequently stronger will always be sure of meeting with a certain 
amount of patronage. 



Custom House, 
Canton, 4th November 1884. 



i a c„ Ti7 



k a 




*2 

P ! 



■<Xii 



11 



JIT.-MTSCELLANEOUS SERIES. 



<* 



No. 


1. 


»> 


2. 


>> 


3, 


it 


4. 


>» 


5. 




6. 



7.— 

8.- 

9. 

10. 

11, 
12. 



„ 13, 

„ 14. 



The Tariff Tables Published 

Ten Years' Statistics '. „ 

Vienna Exhibition Catalogue ,, 

Philadelphia .. .. „ 

Paris „ ., >? 

List op Chinese Lighthouses, etc. : Twelfth 
Issue (First Tssue, 1872) „ 

List of Chinese Lighthouses, etc. : Chinese 
Version of the Twelfth Issue (First Issue, 

1877) 

General Tariff List » 

Berlin Fishery Exhibition Catalogue ,,. 

-Names of Places on the China Coast and 
the Yangtze River: First Issue ,., 

London Fisheries Exhibition Catalogue.... ,, 

-Rules regarding Notarial Acts to be per- 
formed by Commissioners of Customs, and 
Forms of Protest : Second Issue (First 
Issue, 1882: Circular No. 187) „ 

-London Health Exhibition Catalogue „ 

-New Orleans Exposition Catalogue ,, 



1868. 

i373- 
i873- 
1876. 
1878. 

T884. 



1884. 
1879. 
1880. 

1882. 
1883. 



1883. 
1884. 
1884. 



w 



I:fi>\». 



